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At 04:17 PM 10/19/98 -0400, you wrote:
>type3-d Digest Volume 98 : Issue 5
>
>Today's Topics:
> RE: [T3] ignition weirdness [ James MacNaughton
<JMac@uglyducklin ]
> RE: [T3] The Hill [ "Park, Keith J (CRD)"
<parkkj@crd.g ]
> [T3] Brakes [ Gurrola_J <Gurrola_J@BLS.GOV> ]
> RE: [T3] The Hill [ James MacNaughton
<JMac@uglyducklin ]
> RE: [T3] fuel line replacement [ James MacNaughton
<JMac@uglyducklin ]
> RE: [T3] The Hill [ James MacNaughton
<JMac@uglyducklin ]
> RE: [T3] The Hill [ James MacNaughton
<JMac@uglyducklin ]
> RE: [T3] Idle weirdness [ "Tom Cloud"
<computerspace@hotmail. ]
> Re: [T3] A Saturday, a lift and a T3 [ stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan
Schaefer ]
> Re: [T3] Continuing Problems with #2 [ "Tom Cloud"
<computerspace@hotmail. ]
> RE: RE: [T3] Idle weirdness [ mfuhriman@fugro.com ]
> RE: RE: [T3] Idle weirdness [ "Tom Cloud"
<computerspace@hotmail. ]
> [T3] Refitting Injectors & Fastback [ Douglas_Brashear@mail.amsinc.com ]
> RE: [T3] The Hill [ "Erkson, Toby"
<toby.erkson@intel.c ]
> RE: [T3] The Hill [ James MacNaughton
<JMac@uglyducklin ]
> [T3] Window Rubber [ Lori Stewart <lori@antares.com> ]
> RE: [T3] The Hill [ "Erkson, Toby"
<toby.erkson@intel.c ]
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:36:54 -0700
>From: James MacNaughton <JMac@uglyduckling.com>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] ignition weirdness
>Message-ID: <81A84C0BF908D211A46400805F65AC293DE8D3@PHX-ESP-EXC>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>Hey, also just found out (while finding my many seeping fuel lines, at least
>it's the braided hose, though) that my ingnition switch doesn't have the
>typical VW 'One Turn, One Start' feature. Meaning, you can't over-run your
>starter motor, as once you've engaged the Bendix drive once, you have to
>turn the key fully off, and then back on to retry the starter. I didn't
>explain that well, but in any event, mine doesn't do that anymore. Wear on
>the ignition switch, fun stuff.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jim Adney [SMTP:jadney@vwtype3.org]
>> Sent: Friday, October 16, 1998 11:29 PM
>> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>> Subject: Re: [T3] ignition weirdness
>>
>> On 15 Oct 98, at 21:42, Ginger D.&Peter P. wrote:
>>
>> > So does anyone know when the locking steering wheel started. My
>> wheel
>> > does not lock, but I pulled an ignition from a '66 wreck that looks like
>> > it does. I don't remember a mention of it in my owners manual....
>>
>> I think the steering lock started in the US in 69, but I also
>> remember that some very early beetles had it as an option. I suspect
>> there was such a type 3 option also, so it was probably standard in
>> some markets. I don't recall seeing it on the M code list, however.
>>
>> Strangely enough, there are a couple of mentions of the "omission" of
>> steering wheel lock in the type 34 M-code list.
>>
>> Jim
>> -
>> *******************************
>> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
>> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> *******************************
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:37:36 -0400
>From: "Park, Keith J (CRD)" <parkkj@crd.ge.com>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>Message-Id: <F5151F240B94D011BC8D00805FFE7E1601357D29@exc02crdge.crd.ge.com>
>
>Easy to change the fuel line. Carefully grind off the outer brass sheath
that clamps the hose on and
>remove it with a pair of cutters. Then remove the hose and clamp new one
on with regular hose clamp.
>
>All fuel lines should be replace every 10 years.
>
>Keith
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:43:21 -0400
>From: Gurrola_J <Gurrola_J@BLS.GOV>
>To: type3@vwtype3.org, John Kowalski <jkowalski@usaid.gov>
>Subject: [T3] Brakes
>Message-Id: <9B5B5E7457CED111BD8900609705CA4619E82D@SFMAIL>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>True enough. But a misadjusted pedal relative to the master cylinder
>will give one uneven braking that closely resembles misadjusted brake
>shoes. Both procedures, however, are essential in providing a proper
>and even braking.
>
>> ----------
>> From: John Kowalski[SMTP:jkowalski@usaid.gov]
>> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 1998 9:20 PM
>> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>> Subject: RE: [T3] A Saturday, a lift and a T3
>>
>> Jaime,
>>
>> If it helps, I found myself fruitlessly fretting over a low brake
>> pedal
>> until I accurately adjusted the brake shoes on all four wheels. When
>> the
>> brake shoes are adjusted close to (barely scraping) the drums, then
>> the
>> brake pedal should resist your foot near the beginning (top?) of its
>> travel.
>>
>> Take care and good luck,
>> John Kowalski (at work)
>> Zagreb, Croatia
>> -------------
>> Original Text
>> From: type3@vwtype3.org, on 1998.10.19 09:51:
>> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
>>
>> " On properly adjusted brakes, about how much room should be left
>> between
>> the brake pedal and the floor when the brakes are depressed fully?
>> "Bentley says about 5 to 7 mm (3/16 to 9/32 in.) "Use your fingertips
>> tomove the pedal so you can feel the pushrod make contact with the
>> mastercylinder piston." Section 2, pg 6. The measurement relative to
>>
>> thefloor is not mentioned, just as I wrote above. And, it really doe
>> smakea big difference if it is out of adjustment.Jaime
>> Gurrola---------------------------------------------------------------
>> ----Li
>> st info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>>
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 09:46:25 -0700
>From: James MacNaughton <JMac@uglyduckling.com>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>Message-ID: <81A84C0BF908D211A46400805F65AC293DE8D6@PHX-ESP-EXC>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>8^)
>
>Me? Mine's a painfully stock 1600. From what I've heard here, I've
>probably got a stuck (open) injector, one tire in need of replacement, and a
>really good vibration at about 65mph. I'm afraid I couldn't outrun a milk
>wagon. But someday I want to!
>
>For those in AZ, sorry I couldn't come to the meet, I was in an evening
>wedding (I'm also a piper); so getting out of bed at 4:30 didn't really
>appeal that much. I'll catch up soon, though.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jake Kooser [SMTP:jake_k@ibm.net]
>> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 1998 2:44 PM
>> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>> Subject: Re: [T3] The Hill
>>
>> Et tu, James? I'm shocked that Bryan and Toby ("The dark side"
>> brothers) didn't catch this one first. Can we get a judges' ruling on
>> this one, 'cause from down here in sunny Florida it looks like Jim's got
>> a touch of the 'dark side' as well.
>>
>>
>> > My engine is 1600 cc, rather mildly modified, CR ~ 7.0, FI, stock
>> > cam, and yet I believe it will whip any 1600 on this list. Plus it
>> > is 5 years old and has another 10 good years on it (will probably
>> > need a valve job in 60k miles.)
>> >
>> > Jim
>> > -
>> > *******************************
>> > Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
>> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> > *******************************
>>
>>
>> Jake Kooser
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:01:14 -0700
>From: James MacNaughton <JMac@uglyduckling.com>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] fuel line replacement
>Message-ID: <81A84C0BF908D211A46400805F65AC293DE8D7@PHX-ESP-EXC>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>BAP on Scottsdale Road in Tempe; 602.968.9394. They're a foreign car parts
>store that stocks primarily air-cooled VW. They have huge spools of nice,
>black fabric covered 7mm FI hose.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: kevin gunter [SMTP:kgunter@iland.net]
>> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 1998 8:25 PM
>> To: type3@vwtype3.org
>> Subject: [T3] fuel line replacement
>>
>> Can someone recommend a catalog or mail order source for replacement
>> fuel lines ( the fabric covered stuff). I think I've got a leak up
>> front that is wafting through the pedal slots.
>>
>> ps what is a VW FLAPS?
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> KEvin
>>
>> 68 fastback
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:09:44 -0700
>From: James MacNaughton <JMac@uglyduckling.com>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>Message-ID: <81A84C0BF908D211A46400805F65AC293DE8DA@PHX-ESP-EXC>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>Is there a general fix for this (pre-ignition)?
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Erkson, Toby [SMTP:toby.erkson@intel.com]
>> Sent: Monday, October 19, 1998 7:21 AM
>> To: "type3@vwtype3.org"
>> Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>>
>> My comments below.
>> Toby Erkson
>> air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
>> '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
>> '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member
>> Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
>>
>>
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >> Higher compression engines, like my engine, that are at
>> >operating temp or
>> >> higher
>> >
>> >I assume that here you mean "normal operating temp or overheating"
>>
>> Correct.
>>
>> >I can't help wondering if what you are experiencing is a slightly
>> >different thing: preignition. This may be nitpicking, but
>> >preignition is the ignition of the mixture by something hot in the
>> >combustion chamber. It is not the same as detonation (ping, knock,
>> >etc) and I don't think higher octane gas will help it. I am not
>> >particular sure about this, but I think the symptoms, and the engine
>> >damage that can result, are similar.
>>
>> Possible. Yes, preignition is different and octane won't make a bit o'
>> difference. Not good for the engine and a definite loss of power.
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:28:03 -0700
>From: James MacNaughton <JMac@uglyduckling.com>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>Message-ID: <81A84C0BF908D211A46400805F65AC293DE8DB@PHX-ESP-EXC>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>Well, yes, my VW FLAPS (BAP) recommended that to me, but that seems like a
>dreadfully involved process to replace a 1" long piece of #@)(*ing fuel
>line! That's my project for tonight, anyway.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Park, Keith J (CRD) [SMTP:parkkj@crd.ge.com]
>> Sent: Monday, October 19, 1998 9:38 AM
>> To: 'type3@vwtype3.org'
>> Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>>
>> Easy to change the fuel line. Carefully grind off the outer brass sheath
>> that clamps the hose on and
>> remove it with a pair of cutters. Then remove the hose and clamp new one
>> on with regular hose clamp.
>>
>> All fuel lines should be replace every 10 years.
>>
>> Keith
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:26:31 PDT
>From: "Tom Cloud" <computerspace@hotmail.com>
>To: john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr, mfuhriman@fugro.com
>Cc: type3@vwtype3.org
>Subject: RE: [T3] Idle weirdness
>Message-ID: <19981019182632.23829.qmail@hotmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>I have the same thing on my dual carb converted '69 Fastback. When I
>was tuning it up and balancing the carbs last weekend, I noticed the
>-2 and -3 designation on the carbs. The first thing that came to mind
>was that I had an unmatched set of carbs too! Thinking that would
>partially explain why they were sooooo far out of sync. Now, reading
>all these posts, I think that maybe they are correct. They do have
>a definite left and right side orientation.
>
>Regards,
>Tom Cloud
>'69 Bug
>'69 Fastback!
>
>Still looking for an original oil bath dual carb aircleaner - anyone
>got one?
>
>
>>From type3-request@vwtype3.org Sun Oct 18 15:43:06 1998
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>>From: mfuhriman@fugro.com
>>Date: Sun, 18 Oct 1998 17:28:02 -0700
>>Message-Id: <199810190028.RAA00070@fims.fugro.com>
>>To: john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr
>>CC: type3@vwtype3.org
>>Subject: RE: [T3] Idle weirdness
>>X-Mailer: MailNet 4.10
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>>
>>
>>John,
>>My dual Solexes are numbered 32PDSIT-2 (left) and -3 (right). None of
>>the literature I have seen (for my U.S. market car anyway) mentions any
>>other dual Solex set-up. Were things done differently for European (or
>>other) cars? In any event, I believe the numbers on the dual Solexes
>are
>>supposed to be different.
>>_Mark
>>'70 Fastback (that used to be FI but not anymore..dang)
>>
>>John K. wrote:
>>>One other problem I found was that I have two different carbs. The
>left
>>on
>>>is a PDSIT 32-3 and the right one is a PDSIT32-34. I have an extra
>>"set"
>>>of cleaned and rebuilt carbs. I checked them and they also are
>numbered
>>>the same way. I would assume the carb numbers should match.
>>
>>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>>Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>>
>>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 18:27:10 GMT
>From: stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)
>To: type3@vwtype3.org
>Subject: Re: [T3] A Saturday, a lift and a T3
>Message-ID: <362d7f8f.14893395@arpcmail.den.disa.mil>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>On Sun, 18 Oct 1998 10:19:13 -0700, you wrote:
>
>snip
>> Is there a better way to change the filter
>> out so that this won't happen again?
>
>You've got the drill down, clamp off the hoses, change out the filter.
>I use a couple of specialty clamps from Lisle that are made to do
>that, cost about $5 for a pair from the local parts chain store. It's
>been about 10 years, but I've seen them on the hooks recently, so
>they're still being made. Probably cost more, though.
>
>Change your hoses often enough so they don't get hard.
>
>>
>> I took the old filter outside, it had a black plastic casing and
>> poured some of the gas that was still in it on the concrete driveway.
>> The drips appeared to be bright red! Hmmm, I'm not running 80/87 in
>> this car and after the gas on the concrete evaporated red stains were
>> left over. Rust! The new filter I got has a semi-transparent case,
>> same shape, correct part number and after it was installed I looked
>> at it and the gas that is in there doesn't appear to be red or contain
>> rust. I figured that this filter was probably on the car for a long,
>> long time. I also view this as an indication of rust in the gas tank.
>> I looked at the outside of the gas tank, no rust at all. Now, am
>> I going to be driving down the road and have the tank rust through and
>> turn into a fireball?
>
>It probably isn't rust that you saw, but concentrated gas dye. Old
>gas had that wonderful orange-red color when it came out of the pump,
>if it sits long enough and evaporates, you get red sludge. I had one
>salvaged FI pump, one time, that refused to run. Took the pump head
>off, turned the shaft enough to free it up, put it back together and
>ran it on a battery, pumping naptha for 8 hours. The naptha was ruby
>red from all the dye that was in that pump. You might want to take
>out and steam clean your gas tank when you get to it, otherwise that
>stuff will be clogging your filters for a long time. Clean the tank
>filter sock or replace it while you're at it.
>
>>
>> Another thing I noticed was that after I replaced the fuel filter,
>> the Square didn't want to start. I mean it REALLY didn't want to
>> start. I tried the key on, key off many times to try to build up
>> pressure in the line. I finally had to use some starting fliud
>> to get it running. As soon as it started, it stayed running on
>> it's own however. Is this typical for the T3? I remembered the
>> shipping company ran it out of gas when I first got it, and it
>> was just as hard to get it going again after I put in gas.
>
>This is NOT typical. After having the fuel loop open, it'll take
>about 30 secs. of running the pump on my '71 to purge the air and get
>the pressure up to the point where the regulator sings and it'll
>start. Bentley shows where to ground the pump wire in the engine
>compartment for running the pump continously for testing and purging.
>You probably need to replace the rest of the hose all the way around,
>not just in the front, and do a pressure test to see if the thing
>bleeds down too fast(Bentley has the specs). You could have one or
>more leaky injectors, a defective regulator or the pump head relief
>valve could be leaking(has happened to me more than once).
>
>Any time I've replaced the master cylinder, I've never needed to do
>more than bleed things thoroughly. Sounds like you may still have
>some air in there. Bentley has the specs for pushrod adjustment, they
>also say not to do it casually.
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:35:00 PDT
>From: "Tom Cloud" <computerspace@hotmail.com>
>To: type3@vwtype3.org, john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr
>Subject: Re: [T3] Continuing Problems with #2
>Message-ID: <19981019183501.17895.qmail@hotmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>John,
> Maybe you have a crack in the #2 plug wire that is grounding out
>on the sheetmetal somewhere. You could just simply replace the plug
>wires or, in a darkend area - night time perhaps? - start you car and
>go back to the engine compartment and look for a spark jumping out of
>the wires to metal anywhere. If you see it, replace your wire. Sure
>sounds like it's grounding out somewhere.
>
>Good luck.
>Tom
>'69 Bug
>'69 Fastback!
>
>
>>From type3-request@vwtype3.org Sun Oct 18 22:03:31 1998
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>>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 06:59:01 +0200
>>To: type3@vwtype3.org
>>From: "John M. Kowalski" <john.kowalski@zg.tel.hr>
>>Mime-Version: 1.0
>>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>Subject: [T3] Continuing Problems with #2
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>>
>>Hey all,
>>
>>Thought that I had this one licked, but the problem recurred yesterday.
>>The problem? Even though there is consistent spark from the dist. cap
>to
>>the #2 plug wire, the tach meter, when attached to the #2 plug wire
>>indicates an inconsistent firing. The engine idle falters when the
>tach
>>meter indicates a misfire. This only happens on #2. Any ideas? Need
>new
>>plug wire(s)?
>>
>>BTW, using the unisyn, I got the two carbs to draw and operate
>identically.
>> However, I still will hunt for the proper rightside carb for my '65
>1500s
>>Variant.
>>
>>Take care,
>>
>>John
>>Zagreb, Croatia
>>
>>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>>Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
>>
>>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 13:29:20 -0700
>From: mfuhriman@fugro.com
>To: computerspace@hotmail.com
>CC: type3@vwtype3.org
>Subject: RE: RE: [T3] Idle weirdness
>Message-Id: <199810192029.NAA00253@fims.fugro.com>
>
>They are also jetted a little differently. The Haynes manual has the
>best description that I have seen on the dual Solex set up.
> -Mark
> -----Original Message-----
> >Tom C.> I noticed the -2 and -3 designation on the carbs. The first
>> thing that came to mind was that I had an unmatched set of carbs
>> too! Thinking that would partially explain why they were sooooo far
>> out of sync. Now, reading all these posts, I think that maybe they
>> are correct. They do have a definite left and right side orientation.
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:47:10 PDT
>From: "Tom Cloud" <computerspace@hotmail.com>
>To: mfuhriman@fugro.com
>Cc: type3@vwtype3.org
>Subject: RE: RE: [T3] Idle weirdness
>Message-ID: <19981019184711.26409.qmail@hotmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>Hi Mark,
> Say, this may sound like a dumb question, but which Haynes manual
>do you have that describes the carbs? The only manual I've seen is
>for '68 thru '73 - which is FI only.
>
>Thanks.
>Tom
>
>>From mfuhriman@fugro.com Mon Oct 19 11:43:47 1998
>>Received: from [10.0.0.5] by [209.37.233.2]
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>>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 13:29:20 -0700
>>From: mfuhriman@fugro.com
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>>To: computerspace@hotmail.com
>>CC: type3@vwtype3.org
>>Subject: RE: RE: [T3] Idle weirdness
>>X-Mailer: MailNet 4.10
>>
>>
>>
>>They are also jetted a little differently. The Haynes manual has the
>>best description that I have seen on the dual Solex set up.
>> -Mark
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >Tom C.> I noticed the -2 and -3 designation on the carbs. The first
>>> thing that came to mind was that I had an unmatched set of carbs
>>> too! Thinking that would partially explain why they were sooooo far
>>> out of sync. Now, reading all these posts, I think that maybe they
>>> are correct. They do have a definite left and right side orientation.
>>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
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>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 13:34:43 -0400
>From: Douglas_Brashear@mail.amsinc.com
>To: type3@vwtype3.org
>Subject: [T3] Refitting Injectors & Fastback Progress (was Re: The Hill)
>Message-ID: <852566A2.00608066.00@ams-central-gate-5a.amsinc.com>
>Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Disposition: inline
>
>Actually getting the brass collar off the injector takes like 2 minutes...I
>usually drill through the outer metal on the collar clamp, and then pry the
>rest off with diagonal pliers (being careful not to mar the injector
>fitting). The job was so easy that I decided to do it for all the spare
>injectors I have...so now I have a spare bank of injectors, with the
>bakelite holder and all, ready to install when/if (knock on wood) my
>current ones fail.
>
>BTW, just wanted to mention that I found a new vac unit for the dist in my
>73 fasty, installed my new S&S single quiet pack and extractor, tuned the
>engine until it purred, and successfully delivered the car to the paint
>place for a new shower of L61B Sumatra Green :-) Unfortunately on the way
>there I was pulled over and written a ticket for not having a current
>inspection sticker :-(
>
>One more fasty ready to hit the roads after nearly being permanently
>condemned to a life of convalescence!
>
>-Doug
>69 auto FI square (for sale!)
>73 FI fasty
>98 NB
>douglas_brashear@mail.amsinc.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>cc: (bcc: Douglas Brashear/AMS/AMSINC)
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>
>
>
>
>Well, yes, my VW FLAPS (BAP) recommended that to me, but that seems like a
>dreadfully involved process to replace a 1" long piece of #@)(*ing fuel
>line! That's my project for tonight, anyway.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Park, Keith J (CRD) [SMTP:parkkj@crd.ge.com]
>> Sent: Monday, October 19, 1998 9:38 AM
>> To: 'type3@vwtype3.org'
>> Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>>
>> Easy to change the fuel line. Carefully grind off the outer brass sheath
>> that clamps the hose on and
>> remove it with a pair of cutters. Then remove the hose and clamp new one
>> on with regular hose clamp.
>>
>> All fuel lines should be replace every 10 years.
>>
>> Keith
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:51:00 -0700
>From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>
>To: "\"'type3@vwtype3.org'\" " <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>Message-Id: <199810192001.NAA06199@hebe.or.intel.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>Yep. Remove all sharp edges from the combustion chamber, except the spark
>plug
>electrode. If any threads from the spark plug or spark plug hole show then
>the
>spark plug needs to be adjusted to have these covered. Excessive carbon
>deposits will cause pre-ignition since they can get red-hot -- fuel
>additives
>help reduce these.
> Toby Erkson
> air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
> '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
> '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member
> Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>Is there a general fix for this (pre-ignition)?
>
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>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:57:59 -0700
>From: James MacNaughton <JMac@uglyduckling.com>
>To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'" <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>Message-ID: <81A84C0BF908D211A46400805F65AC293DE8DF@PHX-ESP-EXC>
>Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>Well, I'm not really financially in a position to be breaking the motor down
>at this point. I will attempt the injector cleaner/deposit remover route
>for now.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Erkson, Toby [SMTP:toby.erkson@intel.com]
> Sent: Monday, 19 October 1998 12:51
> To: "'type3@vwtype3.org'"
> Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>
> Yep. Remove all sharp edges from the combustion chamber, except the
>spark
> plug
> electrode. If any threads from the spark plug or spark plug hole
>show then
> the
> spark plug needs to be adjusted to have these covered. Excessive
>carbon
> deposits will cause pre-ignition since they can get red-hot -- fuel
> additives
> help reduce these.
> Toby Erkson
> air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
> '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
> '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member
> Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >Is there a general fix for this (pre-ignition)?
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org
>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:55:49 -0700
>From: Lori Stewart <lori@antares.com>
>To: type3@vwtype3.org, bob@cybermill.com
>Subject: [T3] Window Rubber
>Message-ID: <362B9945.6FA0DC0C@antares.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> Whats the going rate for the windshield rubber w/chrome on a T3.
>How is
> West Coast Metric for fit? Any recommendations?
>
>
>I have been trying to purchase window rubber and chrome trim for about 6
>months. West Coast Metric said they didn't stock it anymore. Actually
>every established business that I contacted said "sorry." One private
>owner wanted $300.00. I finally found a really nice guy in Belgium that
>sold me the chrome, rubber and dash from his stock of 64 parts at a very
>reasonable $170.00. The only problem was that the cost of shipping was
>outrageous. Good luck.
>
>lori
>'64 Notchback
>'68 Convertible Ghia
>
>
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>Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 13:08:00 -0700
>From: "Erkson, Toby" <toby.erkson@intel.com>
>To: "\"'type3@vwtype3.org'\" " <type3@vwtype3.org>
>Subject: RE: [T3] The Hill
>Message-Id: <199810192007.UAA14910@calliope1.fm.intel.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain
>
>James,
>You don't have to tear apart the engine! If your heads and plugs are stock
>then
>they should be fine. Spark plug threads become a factor if you are using
>non-stock plugs and/or a non-stock head. Generally, two or more threads
>exposed
>*may* increase your chances of pre-ignition. They have to get real hot
>first
>and in a stock application with everything functioning correctly chances are
>small that this will happen.
>
>The major gas companies have fuel treatments in their high octane fuels
>(90+)
>and I think they may even put it in their lower octanes (Chevron?). You can
>also get fuel additives from any local auto parts store, like STP. If you
>use
>the good, higher octane fuels then carbon deposits shouldn't be an issue.
> Toby Erkson
> air_cooled_nut@pobox.com <-- Please use this address for email
> '72 VW Squareback 1.6L bored and stroked to 2.0L, Berg five-speed
> '75 Porsche 914 1.8L, ORPCA member
> Portland, Oregon, http://www.pobox.com/~toby_erkson/
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>Well, I'm not really financially in a position to be breaking
>>the motor down
>>at this point. I will attempt the injector cleaner/deposit
>>remover route
>
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