Re: [T3] A Saturday, a lift and a T3

[stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)]

On Sun, 18 Oct 1998 10:19:13 -0700, you wrote:

snip
> Is there a better way to change the filter
>  out so that this won't happen again? 

You've got the drill down, clamp off the hoses, change out the filter.
I use a couple of specialty clamps from Lisle that are made to do
that, cost about $5 for a pair from the local parts chain store.  It's
been about 10 years, but I've seen them on the hooks recently, so
they're still being made. Probably cost more, though.

Change your hoses often enough so they don't get hard.

>
>  I took the old filter outside, it had a black plastic casing and
>  poured some of the gas that was still in it on the concrete driveway.
>  The drips appeared to be bright red!  Hmmm, I'm not running 80/87 in
>  this car and after the gas on the concrete evaporated red stains were
>  left over. Rust!   The new filter I got has a semi-transparent case,
>  same shape, correct part number and after it was installed I looked 
>  at it and the gas that is in there doesn't appear to be red or contain
>  rust.  I figured that this filter was probably on the car for a long,
>  long time.  I also view this as an indication of rust in the gas tank.
>  I looked at the outside of the gas tank, no rust at all.  Now, am
>  I going to be driving down the road and have the tank rust through and
>  turn into a fireball? 

It probably isn't rust that you saw, but concentrated gas dye.  Old
gas had that wonderful orange-red color when it came out of the pump,
if it sits long enough and evaporates, you get red sludge.  I had one
salvaged FI pump, one time, that refused to run.  Took the pump head
off, turned the shaft enough to free it up, put it back together and
ran it on a battery, pumping naptha for 8 hours.  The naptha was ruby
red from all the dye that was in that pump.  You might want to take
out and steam clean your gas tank when you get to it, otherwise that
stuff will be clogging your filters for a long time.  Clean the tank
filter sock or replace it while you're at it.

>
>  Another thing I noticed was that after I replaced the fuel filter,
>  the Square didn't want to start.  I mean it REALLY didn't want to
>  start.  I tried the key on, key off many times to try to build up
>  pressure in the line.  I finally had to use some starting fliud
>  to get it running.  As soon as it started, it stayed running on 
>  it's own however. Is this typical for the T3?  I remembered the 
>  shipping company ran it out of gas when I first got it, and it
>  was just as hard to get it going again after I put in gas.  

This is NOT typical.  After having the fuel loop open, it'll take
about 30 secs. of running  the pump on my '71 to purge the air and get
the pressure up to the point where the regulator sings and it'll
start.  Bentley shows where to ground the pump wire in the engine
compartment for running the pump continously for testing and purging.
You probably need to replace the rest of the hose all the way around,
not just in the front, and do a pressure test to see if the thing
bleeds down too fast(Bentley has the specs).  You could have one or
more leaky injectors, a defective regulator or the pump head relief
valve could be leaking(has happened to me more than once).

Any time I've replaced the master cylinder, I've never needed to do
more than bleed things thoroughly.  Sounds like you may still have
some air in there.  Bentley has the specs for pushrod adjustment, they
also say not to do it casually.

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