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On 18 Oct 98, at 10:19, Allen Moore wrote: > What happened was that while the PO replaced the fuel hose on > the ring main, they didn't replace the fuel line hose from the > tank to the fuel pump and the original fabric coated rubber line just > shattered when I clamped it. The line was hard as rock. Only brand new hose will stand up to clamping like this, even though this is what the manual shows. I prefer to pull off the line and shove some kind of plug in it. > I took the old filter outside, it had a black plastic casing and > poured some of the gas that was still in it on the concrete driveway. > The drips appeared to be bright red! > turn into a fireball? You can rather easily inspect the inside of the tank by removing the fuel sensor from the top and looking inside with a flashlight (no matches. ;-) > Another thing I noticed was that after I replaced the fuel filter, > the Square didn't want to start. I mean it REALLY didn't want to > start. I tried the key on, key off many times to try to build up > pressure in the line. Use a jumper wire at the fuel pump relay to run the pump for a while before you run the starter. Wait until you hear the air stop bubbling up in the gas tank, then try starting. You can use the same jumper to check the fuel lines for leaks. Just jump between the two wires that are NOT in the translucent connector. > Installing the center brake line was a heck of a job, > I also used some rags soaked in water to clean up all the brake fluid > on the driver side floor pan and a compressor to dry it out. Ordinary brake fluid is somewhat corrosive so it needs to be cleaned out well. It is water soluble, so you can clean it up pretty well with a bucket of water and a sponge. It doesn't evaporate, so you really can't "dry it out." > I also changed out the brake hoses as well. So the brake system > in this square is 90% new. One last question for you all, I > replaced the master cylinder but I haven't yet adjusted the brake > pedal freeplay. Since I used a new ATE master cylinder does this > freeplay in practice need to be readjusted? In general you should never need to adjust the freeplay, but it is always prudent to check it--it's easy to do. Just grab the pedal with one hand and push it lightly forward until you feel the pushrod just touch the MC. The important thing is that there be SOME play, but there should not be much more than about 1/2" at the pedal (1mm at the MC.) If you replaced your calipers at the same time you will perceive that the pedal is soft. In fact it is correct, but you have gotten used to the hard pedal that your old somewhat frozen calipers gave you. If your pedal goes down too low, but will "pump up" then your rear brakes are not adjusted right yet. If the shoes are new you may need to let them wear into the drums a bit before you can get a really good adjustment. Jim - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe