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Re: [T3] A Tale of Two Senders

On 5 Jul 2006 at 16:14, knowonelse@sbcglobal.net wrote:

> The decent sender came apart without too much trouble to
> find that none of the connections were any good. The ground
> end didn't ground, the wire end didn't connect to the resistance
> wire or to the male connector.

On the ground end, just solder a bare, tinned wire to the lug and 
lead it out the slot in the cover. Dress it so it lays between the 
rubber gasket and the alum flange, just inside the sealing ridge for 
about an inch. When it's mounted it will be pressed against the 
flange and make contact with it.

On the hot side, use some of the brown gooey solder flux and solder 
the rivet to the lug on the inside and the rivet to the lug on the 
outside. If you work quickly, the plastic won't melt too much.

Both of these fixes seem to be permanent. I rebuild these senders, 
doing these fixes and more, for $25.

Don't forget that the sender body ground won't be any better than the 
tank ground to which it's bolted, so the tank hold-down clamps need 
to be tight. Verify that the tank itself is grounded.

Just wipe the dirty stuff off with your hands. Be very careful with 
the resistance wire. It's VERY soft and you can easily stretch it.

Early floats have little horizontal contacts held in place by a 
fragile pair of brass leaves. Later floats have 3 horizontal fingers 
on each side. The later style seems to be much more durable and is a 
perfect replacement for the early ones.

I have a jig which I use to straighten the alum flanges when they are 
warped, which they almost always are, due to being overtightened.

Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

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