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I think a more accurate adjustment would be the 0.8-0.9mm at the throttle - checked with a piece of wire the same thickness. If you adjust your choke arm this way your sure to have the same gap on both, the 2.3mm adjustment is very unclear as the throttle at the stop moves at an angle and it isn't clear when the feeler gauge is correct. BTW, Henrik, Did you check all your jets to see they match your specs? My 2 carb cents. Herman > > The Haynes book says to back off the idle (throttle-stop) screw until the > throttle is completely shut, and then adjust the choke rod to give a gap of > 2.3mm (0.090"; on auto-boxes the gap is 3.2mm). You then turn the stop screw > in by one turn. Actually when I've adjusted the carbs like this, on both the > previous Variant and now on the Notch, the engine idles at 2500-3000rpm on > the choke. It's very embarrassing at traffic lights. I've ended up backing > off the choke rod adjustment by about one turn. My choke rods also seem to > end up quite different lengths when adjusted like this on the Notch. > > Incidentally I was surprised to find the Notch has the piston type pull down > mechanism on the chokes, which I had thought was replaced by the diaphragm > type long before my '70 was built. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/ > >