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----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Hall <dave@hallvw.clara.co.uk> > The choke operating rods have an initial setting length. Do they look > similar? Haynes gives values for those lengths. Have you the electric > shut-off valves? If so, do they work? Low idle is sometimes caused by the > balance pipes not being attached, and consequent air-leaks in the manifolds. > Have the carbs been cleaned out, or had any work done? Do they appear to be > complete - no odd holes where things aren't screwed in? Are the choke > heaters working OK? If they won't open properly, that might be the problem. > The Haynes book says to back off the idle (throttle-stop) screw until the throttle is completely shut, and then adjust the choke rod to give a gap of 2.3mm (0.090"; on auto-boxes the gap is 3.2mm). You then turn the stop screw in by one turn. Actually when I've adjusted the carbs like this, on both the previous Variant and now on the Notch, the engine idles at 2500-3000rpm on the choke. It's very embarrassing at traffic lights. I've ended up backing off the choke rod adjustment by about one turn. My choke rods also seem to end up quite different lengths when adjusted like this on the Notch. Incidentally I was surprised to find the Notch has the piston type pull down mechanism on the chokes, which I had thought was replaced by the diaphragm type long before my '70 was built. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/