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> > 5. I got the rebuilt crankshaft in a box labeled GEX. I know you > > don't think highly of them, but what could they do wrong on a > > crankshaft? > > Measure the journals to make sure you have the right bearings. > Hang the crank from one finger and tap it lightly (on an unimportant > spot) to make sure it "rings" to verify that it's not cracked. Make > sure that the flywheel end and oil drillings are the same as your old > one. It rings beautifully. Unfortunately, I had to trade in the original crank, so I don't have it to compare with, but it does have the same ~1/4 inch step as the original for the o-ring. > > 6. I had case savers installed: what torque should the studs go into > > the case savers? Just the 23 ft lb that the heads apply, a little > > more? > > You just need to get them installed all the way in, no particular > torque. You only torque the nuts after you put the heads on: ... > Just screw them in all the way. (full thread) There is no torque spec on > these. But if I don't tighten them down with the locktite on them right away...when I torque the heads they will want to go in more, correct? If the "head end" of the stud is at 23 ft lb then the "case end" must be in the case at at least 23 ft lb right? Or perhaps ...(thinking)... there is no torquing force at the other end of the stud, only pulling, but surely the nuts on the heads apply some twisting force when they get tight....hmmm... > For > 10mm studs I keep to the upper end of the factory torque, maybe > +1 or 2 lb-ft with case savers. If you are now using 8mm studs, > keep in mind that the torque spec is DIFFERENT! They are the original studs and they are 10mm (measured around the outside of the threads, correct?) Barry Viss '68 Square NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/