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On 20 Jun 2001, at 23:02, Barry Viss wrote: > 1. Main bearing dowels: 5 came out of the case, 4 on the left and one > on the right. The Bentley says only put them on the left... There should be 5. Each bearing PART gets one, so there is one on the right for the #2 bearing. > 2. Trivia: What is the significance of the elephant stamped into the > original rod bearings, right next to the "VW" symbol? A cute logo, but I don't know who it is for. I'm sure it is just the logo for the OE bearing manufacturer. > 3. one half of one of the cam bearings (fromt, rear, cant remember) > is flanged.(both the original and the new ones) does it matter which > side this goes on? It's the rear. I think on the right. If you look closely, you will see that only one of these bearings has the anti-rotation tangs and, usually, only one side of the case is cut away for those tangs. Just mate up the tangs with their slots, otherwise it doesn't matter which side it's on. If you buy HD cam bearing sets these come with 2 flanged bearings and you may have to cut another set of tang clearance kerfs in the other side of the case. > 4. The Bentley says to heat the crankshaft gears to 176 deg. F to > install them, this would burn my fingers, no? any tips, suggestions? > Or do they go on very easily at this temperature? I use our toaster oven and gloves. > 5. I got the rebuilt crankshaft in a box labeled GEX. I know you > don't think highly of them, but what could they do wrong on a > crankshaft? Measure the journals to make sure you have the right bearings. Hang the crank from one finger and tap it lightly (on an unimportant spot) to make sure it "rings" to verify that it's not cracked. Make sure that the flywheel end and oil drillings are the same as your old one. BTW, I've only been in on a dozen or so engine rebuilds, but I've found that unless the engine underwent some kind of catastrophic failure the crank was fine. Regrinding removes strength. > 6. I had case savers installed: what torque should the studs go into > the case savers? Just the 23 ft lb that the heads apply, a little > more? You just need to get them installed all the way in, no particular torque. You only torque the nuts after you put the heads on: For 10mm studs I keep to the upper end of the factory torque, maybe +1 or 2 lb-ft with case savers. If you are now using 8mm studs, keep in mind that the torque spec is DIFFERENT! - Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711-3054 USA ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe