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On 31 Dec 2001, at 23:17, Mark Seaton wrote: > Just a little update on my engine problems. You will recall that I > was getting nasty knocking noises while the engine was warming up > and if I pulled away hard. I checked the compression and found 1,2 > & 4 OK at 120-130PSI, but 3 at 80. I was also having great > difficulty getting the carbs tuned and balanced. > It seems that it was just that the head had come loose-2 of the > nuts on 3 were barely finger tight. I pulled the cylinder to check > the rings were OK and they looked fine. The bores of 3&4 seem > hardly warn at all- you can still see the honing marks all the way > up. The only damage I can see is a little cutting/impact marking on > the face of no3 piston mirrored in no3 combustion chamber- looks > like someone might have dropped a washer or something in the inlet > which wouldn't suprise me as there was a 13mm socket wedged between > the fins!! The damage seems only superficial though and I am happy > to just re-assemble and pray. I agree that this will probably be fine. It might be worthwhile to remove any sharp points that stick out into the combustion chamber though. Hope the 13mm socket was a good one. ;-) > I also found that whoever assembled the engine last did not use > cylinder gaskets and there were no gaskets on the inlet manifolds- > the manifold on 1&2 was loose- you could wiggle the carb around > (don't know why I didn't notice this before). No wonder I couldn't > tune the carbs properly. This was a very good thing to find. Air leaks there will make the engine run lean and hot. > Anyway, my main reason for this post is that with the cylinders > off I found that the top compression ring (ATE) was not as decribed > in my Haynes manual. It has a groove running around it and this was > filled with what looked like carbon deposits. I tried to clean this > out with a scalpel blade but it seemed really well stuck- like it > was supposed to be there. Then I started to wonder if it was in > fact meant to be there - a graphite implant to help lubricate the > top ring? It's supposed to be there. It's sintered <something>. A common style of upper ring. > I am really looking forward to putting the engine back in- what > with a properly tightened head, properly tuned and balanced carbs > (with no air leaks) and re-engineered heat exchangers (someone had > welded on new bits of tube to go into the silencer with 23mm bores > instead of 29 like the tube it was welded to- quite a restriction!) > I think I will really notice the difference! The replacement HE tips have to have a slight reduction over the originals in order to allow for an alignment lip to stick inside the bore of the old tube. It doesn't have to be more than 2mm on the diameter, however, nor for the whole length of the repair part. The repair parts I've seen for beetles are even worse than this, but I've not seen type 3 HE repair tips sold anywhere. Has anyone else? I've been stuck making these pieces myself and I'd love to find a source for them that I could just buy. Even if I have to bore them out a bit, this would save a lot of work. - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/