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<x-charset iso-8859-1>If youve gone as far as pulling the cylinders off dont bother putting them back on... just get a new cylinder kit and replace them... its dirt cheap ($100)US and I cant imagine much more even overseas... putting the jugs back on with the rings oriented differently *could* cause some problems and generally isnt reccomended With the new cylinders you do need to adhere to the new breaking procedure. Keith Keith Park Top Notch Restorations topnotch@nycap.rr.com 71 Squareback (with no empty nipples!) 65 Notchback (still suckin its gas!) 65 Squareback 75 Opel 87 Golf 88 Rx7 10th Anniversary ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Seaton <mark.seaton2@ntlworld.com> To: Type3 Mailing List <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 6:17 PM Subject: [T3] Update on engine problems and question about piston rings > Hi folks, > Hope you all have a very happy New Year! > > Just a little update on my engine problems. You will recall that I was > getting nasty knocking noises while the engine was warming up and if I > pulled away hard. I checked the compression and found 1,2 & 4 OK at > 120-130PSI, but 3 at 80. I was also having great difficulty getting the > carbs tuned and balanced. Well I didn't dare drive it any more so I pulled > my socks up and dropped the engine for a bit of investigation. Well it looks > like I'm luckier than I probably deserve. I was dreading a pulled stud, > burnt valve or cracked head. It seems that it was just that the head had > come loose-2 of the nuts on 3 were barely finger tight. I pulled the > cylinder to check the rings were OK and they looked fine. The bores of 3&4 > seem hardly warn at all- you can still see the honing marks all the way up. > The only damage I can see is a little cutting/impact marking on the face of > no3 piston mirrored in no3 combustion chamber- looks like someone might have > dropped a washer or something in the inlet which wouldn't suprise me as > there was a 13mm socket wedged between the fins!! The damage seems only > superficial though and I am happy to just re-assemble and pray. I also found > that whoever assembled the engine last did not use cylinder gaskets and > there were no gaskets on the inlet manifolds- the manifold on 1&2 was loose- > you could wiggle the carb around (don't know why I didn't notice this > before). No wonder I couldn't tune the carbs properly. Incidentally, if > anyone needs a ring compressor I found that a "high-torque Jubilee" clip, > with the worm mech cut off and with short 3/16 ends bent out at 90 deg, > clamped with mole grips works really well- the only sort I could find to buy > at short notice were the long ratchet style which wouldn't have worked. > > Anyway, my main reason for this post is that with the cylinders off I found > that the top compression ring (ATE) was not as decribed in my Haynes manual. > It has a groove running around it and this was filled with what looked like > carbon deposits. I tried to clean this out with a scalpel blade but it > seemed really well stuck- like it was supposed to be there. Then I started > to wonder if it was in fact meant to be there - a graphite implant to help > lubricate the top ring? Anyone have any ideas- should I clean it or leave > it? > > I am really looking forward to putting the engine back in- what with a > properly tightened head, properly tuned and balanced carbs (with no air > leaks) and re-engineered heat exchangers (someone had welded on new bits of > tube to go into the silencer with 23mm bores instead of 29 like the tube it > was welded to- quite a restriction!) I think I will really notice the > difference! > > Thanks for all the valuable info and keep on T3ing. > > Mark Seaton > Orange and Rust, slowly getting tamed, '73 NonFI FB, London > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe > </x-charset>