lowering front end...

[Jason Renville <Jason_Renville@ccm.al.intel.com>]

Mark,
        First I would like to point out that VW Trends did and article a 
few years out that had step by step instructions for the type three.  It 
also had pictures.


So here is what I did:

        Loosen lug bolts.

        Raise front end and place on good jack stands.

        Block rear wheels.

        Remove wheel.

        
        Remove shock

        Remove brake caliper and hang out of the way with coathanger or  
        similar.

        Remove clamping bolts that hold spindle to ball joints.

        Remove spindle.(At this point you can just swing it out of the   
        way.  If you are going to replace the tie rod ends I would       
        remove them before you remove the spindle.)

        Using a sharp chisel mark the current position of the lower      
       control arm in relation to the torsion bar it is attached to.

        On the bottom of the torsion tube there is a 10mm allen head held in    
        place by a 17mm jam nut.  Loosen jam nut and remove the allen bolt from
        torsion tube.

        Remove lower control arm. (MAKE SURE YOU HAVE MARKED YOU CONTROL ARM    
        LOCATION IN RELATION TO THE TORSION BAR!!!!  Removing the control arm   
        can be a pain in the butt!  You might have to rig up a pulley puller to 
        pry it off.)

        Rotate the control are one, two, or three notches counter clockwise for 
        the drives side.  Clockwise on passenger side. 

        Reinstall everything you have taken off.

Here is where everyone has differing opinions.

        I lowered mine two notches.  I then removed the rubber stoppers.  This  
        gives me more travel for the control arms.  I have a smooth ride.  When 
         the stoppers were in the control arms rested on the stoppers giving me 
a         stiff ride. With the stopper removed you run the risk of bottoming out
          the control arm.  I have yet to do this.  I have hit some large bumps 
           too.  You also have the option of removing the stoppper mount and    
           re-welding it to the front end.  

HAVE A GOOD ALIGNMENT SHOP DO AN ALIGNMENT BEFORE DRIVING FOR ANY EXTENDED 
DRIVING.  YOU WILL GREATLY AFFECT YOUR TOE.  ALSO IF YOUR ALIGNMENT GUY IS WORTH
HIS $29.98  YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL TO GET IT STRAIGHT.  
YOU CAN STRAIGHTEN THE WHEEL USING THE TIE-RODS.  VERY EASY TO DO.  DON'T TAKE 
THE WHEEL OFF TO DO THIS.



Just as a side note--- I had 195/50/15's on Empi 8-spokes.  They rubbed slightly
        on the fender well.  The offset was wrong for the type-3.  I use stock 
wheels now and they don't rub.  I am really pushing it though using 195.s on the
4.5 inch wheel.  

                                Jason Renville
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I would rather attempt something great and 
Fail than attempt nothing and succeed.

Jason_Renville@ccm.al.intel.com
69 Fastback second owner.
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 Has anyone done this before?
(lowered the front end by moving something a couple of notches...) and
tightened the steering wheel free play.  What did you do, EXACTLY?
(Does someone have step-by-step procedures, or perhaps better pictures
from maybe the Haynes manual?)  Also, what parts do I need (besides,
I'm sure, new tie rods as the steering wheel had to be taken off and
put back on "crooked" to make it "straight" when driving.