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Jason Renville wrote: > > Mark, > First I would like to point out that VW Trends did and article a > few years out that had step by step instructions for the type three. It > also had pictures. > > So here is what I did: > > Loosen lug bolts. > > Raise front end and place on good jack stands. > > Block rear wheels. > > Remove wheel. > > > Remove shock > > Remove brake caliper and hang out of the way with coathanger or > similar. > > Remove clamping bolts that hold spindle to ball joints. > > Remove spindle.(At this point you can just swing it out of the > way. If you are going to replace the tie rod ends I would > remove them before you remove the spindle.) > > Using a sharp chisel mark the current position of the lower > control arm in relation to the torsion bar it is attached to. > > On the bottom of the torsion tube there is a 10mm allen head held in > place by a 17mm jam nut. Loosen jam nut and remove the allen bolt from > torsion tube. > > Remove lower control arm. (MAKE SURE YOU HAVE MARKED YOU CONTROL ARM > LOCATION IN RELATION TO THE TORSION BAR!!!! Removing the control arm > can be a pain in the butt! You might have to rig up a pulley puller to > pry it off.) > > Rotate the control are one, two, or three notches counter clockwise for > the drives side. Clockwise on passenger side. > > Reinstall everything you have taken off. > > Here is where everyone has differing opinions. > > I lowered mine two notches. I then removed the rubber stoppers. This > gives me more travel for the control arms. I have a smooth ride. When > the stoppers were in the control arms rested on the stoppers giving me > a stiff ride. With the stopper removed you run the risk of bottoming out > the control arm. I have yet to do this. I have hit some large bumps > too. You also have the option of removing the stoppper mount and > re-welding it to the front end. > > HAVE A GOOD ALIGNMENT SHOP DO AN ALIGNMENT BEFORE DRIVING FOR ANY EXTENDED > DRIVING. YOU WILL GREATLY AFFECT YOUR TOE. ALSO IF YOUR ALIGNMENT GUY IS WORTH > HIS $29.98 YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL TO GET IT STRAIGHT. > YOU CAN STRAIGHTEN THE WHEEL USING THE TIE-RODS. VERY EASY TO DO. DON'T TAKE > THE WHEEL OFF TO DO THIS. > > Just as a side note--- I had 195/50/15's on Empi 8-spokes. They rubbed slightly > on the fender well. The offset was wrong for the type-3. I use stock > wheels now and they don't rub. I am really pushing it though using 195.s on the > 4.5 inch wheel. > > Jason Renville > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > I would rather attempt something great and > Fail than attempt nothing and succeed. > > Jason_Renville@ccm.al.intel.com > 69 Fastback second owner. > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > ________________________________________________________________________________ > reply separator > > > Has anyone done this before? > (lowered the front end by moving something a couple of notches...) and > tightened the steering wheel free play. What did you do, EXACTLY? > (Does someone have step-by-step procedures, or perhaps better pictures > from maybe the Haynes manual?) Also, what parts do I need (besides, > I'm sure, new tie rods as the steering wheel had to be taken off and > put back on "crooked" to make it "straight" when driving. how do you raise the rear end after it has been lowered? mine sits too low for my taste ,thats the way I bought it and I want to change it back to all stock..any info would be greatly appreciated..thanks roosterSD@sprintmail.com 71 SQUAREBACK