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Big Al wrote:
> I've wondered about the MC bench bleeding "necessity", 'cause I've never
> needed to do it previously. So, I assumed it was either necessary for
> OTHER cars or I was just really lucky. ;)
>
>
When I sold auto parts, all the master cylinders I sold had a slip of
paper with the bench bleeding procedure listed, and came with a set of
plastic fittings and hoses. It took 15 years, but this list has proven
to me that this is largely bunk (at least for non-ABS equipped
vehicles), after I did the complete hydraulic overhaul of my brakes and
a DoT-5 transfusion. Gravity will bleed the air out of your system. If
you want to speed things up a little, a power brake bleeder is nice to
have. I've got a Motive Power Bleeder I use for all the family cars.
Makes bleeding a snap. No excuse to not change out your DoT-3 or DoT-4
fluid every 2-3 years when you have one of these.
> Cool, then I have NO problem there. :)
> Then that brings the focus to the pump.
>
> I'll try the hammer bump and I'll doublecheck that I connected the hoses
> correctly (just to make sure).
>
>
>
There is a certain amount of gravity feed that comes into play. I would
venture to guess that given the pump's location, that gravity itself
does the priming if its at all needed.
I wouldn't even strike the pump with a hammer. I'd use a small piece of
wood (the hammer handle would probably suffice). Something with not a
lot of mass.
As far as the hose connections are concerned:
RV
||________
R==| |
O==| [C] |
I==|_________|
R is return
O is outlet
I is inlet
C is the electrical connector, facing you
RV is the metal cap that keeps the pressure relieve valve spring in place.
I connects to the fuel tank, which has a fuel filter inline with the
outlet from the tank.
O connects to the tube on the drivers side of the car. It may first go
to a disc-shaped device mounted on the front suspension beam and then
come back to the tube on the drivers side. This device is a sound
dampener. It can be excluded, but it may make the fuel delivery system
make a little more whine.
R connects to a Tee, and this tee also connects to the tube coming from
the passenger side of the car and the fuel tank return inlet.
The fuel tank outlet on the tank is the tube that has a threaded nut on
it. It may be angled. The return line is a little straight pipe welded
onto the tank. This is at least the arrangement on my '73.
Download this manual if you want to see schematics of the fuel line
arrangement (and have a handy manual to the FI system in general). Page
30 has the fuel line schematic:
http://www.vwtypethree.com/downloads/pdf/Glenn-FI-Type3.pdf
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