Re: [T3] '71 wagon renovation

[Toby Erkson <air_cooled_nut@pobox.com>]

<x-flowed>Reliable?  Stay with the stock FI (fuel injection).  Get it fixed/tuned 
by someone knowledgeable with the stock system.  GOOD LUCK as the vast 
majority of mechanics don't know diddly about the system and will do 
everything in their power to convince you to go with carbs.  If you must 
go with carbs then stick to stock Type 3 carbs from an earlier model.  
Even still, FI is best.

It's a +30 year old vehicle.  You ain't gonna get the acceleration -- 
with or without load -- like any modern car so don't expect it.  You can 
haul/tow a 500# load if you get a VW Type 3 hitch.  Most agree that the 
car rides better with a load for distance.  Because you have to haul a 
load with your car I would recommend not lowering it, however, due to 
the car's age the rear may be sagging (lower than the front) and 
actually need to be raised (if not replacing the torsion bar).

I disagree about '71 being the best, at least for your requirements.  
'72 and '73 have the inertia reel safety belts and bigger front brakes, 
big pluses in my book.

I think the stock seats are very comfy but I prefer firm seats opposed 
to typical cushy American seats.  I've done several cross-country jaunts 
in mine with no complaints.

Whatever tire you get, make sure the tread wear is 360 or less (320, 
300, etc.).  This will help with your requirement for better braking.

A/C is gonna be difficult to pull off and expect at least $1000 for a 
very basic installation.  You'll want the most efficient compressor you 
can get so it consumes the least amount of hp from the engine.  The more 
hp is required to operate it, the more heat will be generated by the 
engine and that's not a good thing.

I would recommend an oil pressure gauge.  80psi max.  I find mine 
helpful in assessing how hot my engine is running and as a wear 
indicator (the more wear an engine has the more the oil pressure drops).

You MUST get a Bentley shop manual, especially if you plan on doing ANY 
work yourself.  Valves gotta be adjusted every 3000 miles, for example, 
as does the air cleaner oil bath if you have it.  These cars do require 
a little more maintenance than your modern vehicle, just so you know.

I hope you've worked on cars before because this could be quite the 
project...and we haven't even discussed rust!

   Toby Erkson  --  air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
   '72 VW Squareback Darksider, 5-speed, 2.0L, rag top
   '72 VW Squareback Lightsider, automatic, FI, sunroof, gas heater
   '95 VW Jetta ~ SCCA Solo 2 EP #3; '73 Porsche 914; '81 Honda Gold Wing
   http://www.icbm.org/
   Portland, Oregon


Jon Ruud wrote:

> I've got a 1 owner 1971 Type III wagon that I would like to rebuild.  =
> These are my goals:
> 1. Build a reliable platform for Interstate driving.  I require a =
> cruising speed of 75 mph with no stress to engine or trans (std) in =
> summer desert driving conditions.
> 2. Accelleration with a total load of 500 lbs that is fun on the =
> freeways.
> 3. Braking and Suspension improvements that focus on stability more than =
> comfort.
> 4. Front seating that is comfortable for 10 hour driving stretches.
> 5. My boss is from an equitorial country and insists on on =
> airconditioning.  What is possible that respects the forgoing =
> requirements?
> 6. Improved driving lighting.
> 7. Best tire choice for the given driving conditions.
>
>  This car has not been on the road for 15 years, has 130 k on the =
> odometer...

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