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Re: [T3] Removing stock muffler, #2 exhaust, lower nut


This is why so many of these motors die early deaths!  There are so many
moron's out there and the seem to keep finding VW's!
    There IS a way to get at each exaust nut with everything in the car...
its been a few years so it isnt still in my head but as I recall I needed to
use a socket and extension on ONE of the nuts on each side (in fact there is
a stamping in the upper heat exchanger shield to allow a socket extension to
reach the nut)  the Other 2 nuts I got with a box/open end wrench...  I
*think* its the upper nuts that get the socket and extension.

Keith



> First, the "engine builder" is a &%*&#$@ing moron!  The cooling flaps
> were locked open by pushing the horizontal actuating rod into the
> cylinder fins.  So I had to install a thermostat and housing, vertical
> actuating rod, pivot assembly, and spring.
>
> There's no cooling tin from the fan housing to the cylinder head on the
> right side and I can't put my replacement in there until I remove the
> fan housing.  The LEFT side of the engine does have the cooling tin,
> however, it is the RIGHT side piece!  Yeah, I'm serious.  I unscrewed it
> from the upper tin and it dropped right to the ground.
>
> How in the mother-#*$&^*&^ing way am I supposed to remove this bastard
> nut?!?  Engine is still in the car and, from my perspective, doesn't
> need to be dropped.  I can't remove the engine hanger unless I remove
> the fan housings and I can't remove those until I remove the
> exhaust...which leads us back to DOH!
>
> HELP!
>
> -- 
>     Toby Erkson  --  air_cooled_nut@pobox.com
>     '72 VW Squareback Darksider, 5-speed, 2.0L, rag top
>     '72 VW Squareback Lightsider, automatic, FI, sunroof, gas heater
>     '95 VW Jetta ~ SCCA Solo II; '73 Porsche 914; '81 Honda Gold Wing
>     http://www.icbm.org/
>     Portland, Oregon
>
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> List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
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>



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