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In a message dated 8/25/05 10:17:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
paul_cowan@juno.com writes:
<< When you speak about changing grit on the sandpaper you are using, are
you using a mechanical sander? Can I use my palm sander or will it leave
marks? I have used POR-i5 anti rust treatment, and the rust did not come
back. now I want to sand it for primer and topcoat. >>
Sue and Dave kinda covered that already, but I'll add my 2 cents worth. The
palm sander will leave marks, that you'll have to sand out, so you're better
off sanding the scratches out, as they can come back to haunt you. Work
progressively to finer (larger number) grits. I prefer to knock the off finish off
with 120 to 180 grit, with either a DA sander, or by hand (using a sanding
block). Normally I'll start with the worst areas first, then move out about a foot
in all directions. Once that area is prepped, I'll shoot a little DP epoxy
primer on it to seal that area(s) off, then move to another area. I like to be
sanding on one side, while the other side is either a step ahead or behind the
one I'm working on. I'll work around the entire car getting it re-sealed back
off in DP epoxy primer, then I'll start adding sandable primer (K-36) and
fillers (dura glas and Rage), then work those around the car (several times),
working one side then the other again.
Por 15 requires it's own speacial work if you're going to top coat it. If
it's been over 7 days since it was applied, you're going to have to scuff it
with some 3M scotch brite (red pads), or with 120 grit sand paper, so the next
couple of layers will have something to grab to. You've got 2 choices, scuff and
use their tie coat, and then switch to automotive primer and paint, or
re-coat with another layer of Por 15, then after about 2 hours spray a coat of epoxy
primer (DP40,48, 50, 90 depends on the color you're using), then you can
finish as normal (sandable primer, then a sealer coat then top coats). You won't
find that last bit of info on the can or in the product info sheet, but I've
known about it for over 4 years, and that's what I do when using it (por 15).
I've tried it both ways, but I kept running into a lifting problem (requires
re-sanding and starting over) using the tie coat, so I stopped using it. Since
then, I haven't had a problem. Just so you're aware of what you're getting into,
you're probably looking at 3 to 4 weeks worth of work, meaning 4 to 6 hours
after work, and both days of a weekend. This is part of the reason it costs so
much for a quality paint job (labor intensive), the rest is materials (which
aren't cheap either). I hope this helps.
Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
71 Square, Formerly a 2 seat Roadster, now a T-3 Heb, pics can be seen
at;
http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2977
69 Square, currently awaiting a 2.0L t-4 engine transplant
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