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I'm not sure what the air adjustment screw you mention is Keith - you mustn't adjust the air-flow with the mixture screw or the mixture goes wrong. Once you've got the engine running, you do the mixture screws (the ones with a black wheel) first to get the correct mixture. If you've no CO meter, adjust for max rpm then a tad richer. Then do the other mixture screw. Check both are still OK. Then do the airflows - remove right rod. Adjust throttle stop screw to get the same flow on each carb, and then adjust the rod length so it doesn't change the throttle position when re-connecting (I usually find it's exactly the same as before cleaning). It's a fiddle as you have to end up at a proper idle speed. You do need to have the choke rod adjusted to give the right opening of the flap when the stop has a particular gap, but unless it's all been taken apart or come loose, it shouldn't need adjusting. Oh, and make sure the balance pipe connections are all good - very confusing if there are leaks there. Dave. UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/ ------ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Friday, August 12, 2005 4:06 AM Subject: Re: [T3] Carb synchronization tool > Ya know, all this sync talk has me syncing... er, thinking. > Im setting the stock solex's back up on the Crate engine, and basically > there is ONE flow adjustment on it. You set the idle screws a fixed amount > from closed throttle (say one turn to start) then adj the linkage to start > to open the throttles at the same exact time... then once running all you > can really do is adjust the flow with the air adjustment screw till the 2 > are the same on the sync tool (unisyn in my case) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~