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On 1 Sep 2004 at 15:22, fess wrote: > Ok, so my nightmare is continuing. Yes, I think this sounds like a nightmare for any of us. I hope you got it cheap, because I'm afraid it sounds like you bought the results of some PO's ignorance. This is exactly the reason why I try to encourage people who want to "soup up" their cars to go slow and learn the ropes before they get in too deep. > summary: '67 square, 2275cc Engine, new rancho tranny. > I started hearing a screeching noise, when shifting into gear. > the guy who supplied the tranny [ steelbuggin.com, also built the motor > ] to the previous owner, thought it was not the tranny, > but the throwout bearing, and I should have a look. > I have mechanic drop the motor. it's the gland nut. It's destroyed > needle bearings are everywhere. He doesn't think it was ever greased. > new tranny's drive shaft needs to be smoothed out some. Okay, that was fairly easy, and not too much damage done. But still, a beginner's mistake. > It's up, he calls me down to show me all the _other_ stuff he's found. > > Tranny is leaking. [ as per other thread. ] This will be somewhat costly to fix, just because of everything that has to come apart. If it is JUST a crack at the edge of one spot weld, I wonder if you could train the tranny oil and quick weld it shut? > Fuel line is run outside the car. [ I'll take care of this later. ] Hmmm, why. I've seen this before, where someone must have thought the line in the tunnel was leaking, but it wasn't. I've never seen one of the tunnel gas lines rust thru. > Parking break cable guides are too short. [ rear disk brake kit was > probably for a bug, not sure what to do here] Uh-Oh, the poorly installed rear disk brake kit. Maybe you can salvage it, but it will take work. I just wonder why it is the people will spend money like this and then not bother to get it installed and working right.... > Needs a new throw out bearing. Easy fix, especially right now. > Tranny mount is poorly installed, studs driven half way out the back, > nuts barely hanging on. other nuts loose. Is this the front mount? Should be easy to fix. > Bowden tube is too short. One of the reasons for the chatter. Hmmm, what's going on here? There's only one length of Bowden tube. I suspect that the steel tube in the tunnel has broken loose at the rear bulkhead. It can be pulled back out and a washer carefully welded to it to keep it from retracting again. > Has a solid [racing?] clutch with no springs. He says racers believe > it's stronger, but for street he recommends I get the one with springs. > several other small things. I've driven both and haven't noticed that much difference, but the original had the springs. > This car has an Empi "Kafer Cup" style traction bar kit on it. pretty > neat looking thing. previous owner got it from ISPWest. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? > ViewItem&rd=1&item=7918010879&category=33592&sspagename=WDVW > > It mounts on the topside, by extending the bolt for the shock mount, > and putting that bracket on there. Never heard of this. I seriously wonder if there's any real point. It just reinforces the part of your car that's already stronger than anything else there. It MIGHT make some sense in an IRS type 3. Maybe it makes some sense with the swing axle, because it DOES do some triangulation. Really, though, this is a drag racing accessory. Do you think you want it? > the bolts on mine are the wrong thread, and have been wedged in, to > the captured nut, in the frame of the shock mount. one manges to come > out, and to get re tapped. unfortunately the other nut is spinning. > can't get the bolt out. This nut is in the frame. What idiots! > The mechanic is contemplating cutting a hole in the frame, to get at > the nut on the inside. but worries about it disturbing the structural > integrity. I think he could drill a hole, or maybe 2 and reach in and weld the nut back on. Most nuts like this were just big square nuts, tacked in place before welding things together. If he could weld it back in two places, then he might be able to get the bolt out. once everything seems okay, he could weld his holes closed. If you try this, make sure there is tension on the bolt while welding, so that the nut is pulled down snug against the part that it is mounted to. > I'm considering trying to get the whole bit of frame assembly. ( jeez. ) > I believe it actually all unbolts. can anyone confirm that? Yes, it's the rear subframe. You need one from a Squareback, as fastys came with smaller torsion bars. 66-68 should be good replacements for yours. If you just bought a complete rear end from a junked square, then you might get a complete subframe, OE brakes, etc. This might relieve you of some other problems related to the brakes that you haven't seen yet. > one solution I thought was we could drill small holes and do some > surgery with some punches to get the nut to stop spinning again. small > holes are better than big hole. but that would definitely require > knowing what's inside there. I think this is a reasonable idea, but you'd still want to weld the small holes shut when you're finished. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~ Shameless link for search engines: http://listarchive.type3.org ~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~