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>temperature sensor really be what stalls the car out i'm not positive, but the ECU gets data from these sources which may cause it to have problems delivering the correct pulses to the injectors. See info from old post: > The cold start valve is more akin to, on a carbed car, the driver > pushing the gas pedal to the floor & releasing it in order to dump a > squirt of raw gas from the accel pump. (Of course, on a carbed car, this > also lets the fast idle cam and choke deploy into their "cold" positions.) > > The choke function -- delivering a richer mixture while running > cold -- is handled by the cylinder head & intake air temp sensors telling > the ecu that it's cold, so that the ecu can lengthen the duration of the > injector pulses. > > The aux. air regulator pretty much does the job of a carb's fast > idle cam. > I forgot the VR. >If your voltage regulator is worn out and regulating at too low a voltage, this >will also make the FI run rich, which will make any other richness problems >much worse. This is a common problem. >You should measure a voltage of more than 13.5V at the battery with a warmed up >engine running at medium RPM. If your voltage is lower than this, replace the >VR with a genuine Bosch 30-019. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org