Re: [T3] running on 2 cylinders

["Garret Trask" <garret_trask@hotmail.com>]

<x-flowed>Update: status unchanged.  Here's what I did last night:

- I noticed that the coil wire was underneath the generator.  The plug wires 
for #3 and #4 were in their clips as they should be.  I moved the coil wire 
back to it's clip.

- I ran the car, and shut off all the lights per Steven's suggestion.  I 
didn't notice any sparks off of the #3 and #4 plug wires.

- I took off the cut off valves.  I noticed a blackish spot on the end of 
left side cut off valve.  I wasn't sure if it had been there when I took it 
out, or if I may have brushed it against something dirty when I removed it.  
 I cleaned it, and put it back in the right side carb.  I took the one from 
the right side carb and moved it to the left side.  Started up the car - no 
change.  #3 and #4 are still not firing.  One thing about these - I'm not 
sure what these are supposed to look like, but they mine have a tube 
extending from the end that fit inside the carb when they are installed.  
The tub has a rounded end with what appears to be a very small hole at the 
tip.  Also, there are four holes along spaced around the side of the tube.  
Someone yesterday said something about a "needle" possibly being removed 
from these, which would explain why the car still runs when I deny both of 
them power.  I didn't see any kind of needle, should I have?

- I took off the coil wire, and had my daughter turn over the engine while I 
was shining a light down the throat of the left carb.  No cloud of vapor 
appeared.  I checked the right side....still no cloud of vapor was visible.  
So this test was non conclusive.

- I checked the dwell.  I'm getting a stead 25 deg. reading on my 8 cyl 
scale, which I believe means 50 deg. for a 4 cyl, which is in the correct 
range.

- I double checked the plug wires to ensure they aren't crossed.  If the 
firing order is supposed to be 1-4-3-2, they are correct.

- I attached my timing light to the spark plug end of the #3 and #4 plug 
wires.  The results here are the same as at the distributor cap end, which 
means spark is getting to the plugs at the right times.  Also, I'm sure the 
plug wires are firmly attached to the plugs.  I hear a satisfying clicking 
noise as I put the plug wires on, which to me means that some kind of spring 
clip inside the plug wire socket is engaging the threads at the top of the 
plug.

- I turned the idle-air screw about 1/4 turn counter clockwise.  - no 
change.

- I checked the carb linkage on the left side, looks just like the right.

- I unhooked the balance tube from the left side carb while the engine was 
running, and it died.  I assume this is because I had introduced a large 
vacuum leak to the system.  I didn't invest in a vacuum tester because if I 
hook that up to the left side carb, I think I'd get a reading from the right 
side carb because of the balance pipe.  I could plug it at both carbs to try 
to get an isolated reading on the left side carb, but I don't really want to 
buy a tester.  Do you guys have any other suggestions on what I should do to 
check vacuum?  I will buy a tester if I need to.

- I'm noticing a buildup of black spots under the tail pipe.  Any thoughts 
on what this means?

- The choke on the right side carb never seems to open fully, even when the 
engine warms up.  So I guess this means that the choke needs some 
adjustment.  Not sure about the left side, as that side never warms up!

Thank you to everyone for your input in helping me diagnose this problem.  
My future plans (based on all of your input):

- check the valve adjustment.

- put in new spark plugs

- check primary/secondary resistance on the coil

- remove the brass plug and spray carb cleaner at the main jet.

- try new points and condenser -- I promise not to throw my old ones away, 
and will put them back in if this doesn't change anything :)

- take off the left side carb and re-build it.

I will keep you posted with results from any new testing.

Gary

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