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On 23 Mar 2003 at 7:21, Daniel Baum wrote: > The "R" and "T" distributors that I have are vacuum advance only, unless I'm > very much mistaken. The latter was apparently used 70-72. How late is late, > and how can I be sure that it's not mech/vac advance? I can't tell from the microfilm. If you can send me the 10 digit Bosch numbers I may have better luck with those. You could tell if you took out the breaker plate and looked underneath it. A vac only dist would have just a straight shaft that disappeared into the shank of the dist, but if you see some plates, springs, etc that rotate with the shaft then this is the mech adv. > Certainly when you suck the vacuum can the whole breaker plate turns and > stays turned. The R and T units don't actually appear to differ from each > other in any way, as far as I can see, so the difference must be pretty much > invisible (or I've missed something obvious). This doesn't sound right. There should be a spring return on any advance. Either your spring is broken/missing, or the grease in there has hardened up and is keeping the advance from returning. It's very important that whatever advance mechanism you have works smoothly and returns quickly. Another possibility is that the wrong vac can is installed there. I think most of the early vac only dists had a return spring built into the dist body, while the later models have it built into the can. If you have an early can on a late body then you just don't have a spring. I may have the right can. Take a look at the actuating arm on the can, the one you can see inside the dist. There should be a 3 digit number stamped on it. What is that number (if you can see one?) > Jim, if you're interested in having a look I can send you the R distributor, > which is defunct (stripped points screw hole). If you think you can rebuild > it, that would be great too. Send me the Bosch #s first. I can probably fix it, but it's a long way to do this. OTOH, Global Prioriy Mail is really pretty cheap for light things like this. This dist appears to use the same points as all the ones I'm used to, A cheap but effective repair for a stripped hole is to tap it for the next larger bolt. I think the original screws are M4; an M5 bolt makes a good repair and still clears the points, just make sure you tap it nicely perpendicular to the plate. I could also sell you a replacement plate, if it's the one I think it is. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org