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I'll try and take a stab at this, but I'm sure others will also respond.
Adam wrote:
>There is a screw-in sensor on the rear driver's side of the ?transmission
>pan? (square and flat on the bottom, Bentley says there is a filter here and
>lots of stuff that can fall out if you take it apart). Does anyone know
>what this is?
A vacuum modulator. Its for controlling how smoothly the trans shifts.
>It has a single wire coming out of it, which I followed, to
>find it was connected to nothing.
This is a switch for the electric transmission kick down control, it should
have a wire the goes to the coil (+ side) with an inline fuse in it and one
wire that goes to the trans with a switch in between.
>I have the little chrome air filters, not the (I imagine) vastly superior
>oil bath type.
Yes, this is correct, the oil bath is the best you can have. VW spent alot of
time and $$$ to get it right.
>There is a connector on the bottom of one for a hose, but
>not on the other. I think it should be connected to this thing on top of
>the engine, rear-center, which has a plastic cap that you can remove (and
>see oil residue) and a little pipe that blows hot air when the engine is
>running. It is currently not connected.
This is really not that much of a problem now, but later when you get the
correct air cleaner set up or something better then you might want to do
something about it. For now I'd run a hose off this connection and temporarily turn it
into a road draft tube (like a bug uses), as this will take one part out of
the equation.
> However, since the air filters are
>not linked, I'm thinking it would be bad, balance-wise, to have it going to
>only one side. Am I correct in thinking this?
Yes. Feeding oil fumes to one side and not the other will effect the balance
and operation of the carbs.
>I took the car to emissions today and it failed the hydrocarbons part of the
>test at idle. The PO told me he had advanced the timing because it gave the
>car more "pep", so I bought a timing light and went to set it myself.
I can understand that, as I like to use ALL 66 HP that I have to their
fullest ( I only have this many and I like to use them all), and do like to run a
little more advance if the car will stand it.
> Bentley says to set it a 0 degrees BTDC, which is supposed to be
>the 2nd mark you hit going clockwise.
What year is this again? As different years require different timing.
>I have to pump the brake pedal to get the rear brakes to grab. I've bled
>the system a few times (both by myself and with my wife pumping the brakes
>while I did the open/close thing) with no real improvement. They do work
>okay after being pumped. The PO told me that he had just replaced the
>master cylinder. Any ideas before I take it to the mechanic?
I think you still might have some air in your lines. Did you or the PO
replace the rubber brake hoses? If not you might want to do this, as they do like to
collapse from the inside, especially the fronts with age.
>My car has been lowered. It needs new tires, and I'd like to get the 135's
off the front and replace them with the stock 165's.
Yes, anythings better than 135s on the front, as the fronts do quite a bit of
work.
> I examined the front beam and I don't see any adjusters welded in,
> or any welding at all, so I imagine it was done "on the cheap".
No, on a type3 you can fine tune (raise or lower) the front end without
buying anything, as they use splined torsion bars just like the rear of both a bug
and a type3.
>I've tried to find a website that shows
>how this is done so I can attempt to reverse it, but I've just found sites
>that mention a cheap method of lowering only to caution against it.
You need to visit this site; http://www.icbm.org/erkson/index.html and type
in "front" into the search function (sorry Toby, but yours is the only one I
know thats still up and running : ) )
> I understand that people want to do things the right way, but since this has
>already been done, does anyone know of a site that shows this process
>step-by-step?
See the above site, as there is a lot of good info there.
> I did find one site that mentioned you could cut part of the
>front beam, (I think the torsion bar), twist it with a pipe wrench and
>reweld it, but I see no evidence of this.
No need to do this, as it is alot simpler than that. Both ends of the front
torsion bars are splined, so it makes adjusting the front end very easy. When
you get you Bentley manual, you will see that you can actually fine tune it
according to Keith's instructions on Toby's site.
>I've got tons more questions, but I already feel bad enough asking for so
>much with nothing to contribute, so I'll stop here.
Don't feel too bad, as thats what we're here for, to help other type3 owners
out when we can and to share info to further knowledge. And we were at one
time all newbies.
> Keep in mind that my starter was
>wired to my backup lights, so I can't speak as to the correctness of
>anything...
I know how that goes, as I've run into all sorts of strange things over the
years to all types of VWs.
>Thanks for reading this and for any advice you can offer,
I hope the above helps.
Bob 65 Notch S w/ Sunroof
69 Square AT-the baby suburban
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