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On 12 Aug 2003 at 22:49, Chris J Valade wrote: > Well, I got all four injectors to work, all I did was switch the > plugs on 3 and 4 and then test them with the key switched to "ON" and > pressing the accelerator from the engine, eventually--not sure why--the > other two started to spray. My guess is that in repositioning the plugs you just got better contact with the injector pins. It is a rather common problem these days to find that the female connector pins are loose on the injector pins. To really fix this you have to carefully remove each pin from its housing and squeeze it very slightly, check it alone on the injector, and then reinstall it in the connector body. > When I went for a test drive she was still really weak, probably > because of a combination of the generator strap being too loose, bad > timing, low idle (around 700 RPM), running hot, and a (possibly) > defective distributor. Would this explain low power? Once I would drive > for a while she would all of a sudden regain power and be like she > should, but she stalled when I had to slow down to make a turn, and > although would start and rev nicely in neutral kept dying when put into > drive--I had to rev and then put it in drive (I know that's bad for the > tranny) to get home (about 3 blocks). Check dwell, timing, advance & valve lash. Make sure that the mech advance is working.... > Since the AAR is basically a thermostat, why does the AT one > require a wire to work? Beats me, but I'm sure that it had something to do with meeting emissions regs. I suspect that it just changed the time it took to warm up. > One of the bolts that was epoxied in for the generator strap fell > out again, so I won't be able to start her until I get a countersink, > which should be soon. You mean stud? Get it repaired with a helicoil. You don't want or need a countersink. > When I was testing the injectors as I mentioned, all four > injectors sprayed at the same time, should this occur? Also, when I was > doing this, the MPC to the trigger contacts weren't attached. Sounds odd, but maybe the injectors that fire are the ones whose trigger point is open. Since yours was disconnected, both were open. > That's right, I noticed no difference when the engine was running > and I sucked on the vacuum hose. I checked the hose and it is fine. The > plate does move when I suck on it, but only 2 or 3 degrees. I have to > see if the timing advances when I do this, and I'm going to try it again > in case I didn't notice a difference because two injectors weren't > working. And the number on the vac can arm is: 265. That's a 68-71 MT vac adv can, but it should work fine for you. It does NOT have the 72 vac adv and retard. It sounds like you're not getting any vac advance, but this won't affect performance with any of the FI systems. It will cause reduced gas mileage. If your mech adv isn't working (check this with your timing light--you should see the spark advance as you bring the rpm up) then the dist should be rebuilt. No mech advance will make the system run VERY poorly. > What is the part number for the 009 Bosch distributor I need? > Even if I don't need a new one altogether, I would like to replace this > instead of a bunch of parts of the old one, besides I was told that the > new Bosch has more power. You DON'T want a 009, and that's good, because you can't use one with the FI. Even if you switched to carbs you still DON'T want a 009. They are marketed to make the sellers money, not to help your engine perform. > I attempted to reposition the distributor drive shaft since right > now it points at #4 when in TDC #1--it is in nearly the same position, is > this normal? It's possible that the drive shaft was installed incorrectly by some previous (beetle) mechanic. If your engine is running at all right now, just leave this alone and put it on your list to maybe fix up later. > I don't have the pieces that are necessary for kickdown on the > accelerator--I will have to buy and install them eventually. Yes, eventually. > The flaps are there and wired open. Could the tin piece I'm > missing around where the SPs go in be the cause? I do have the front > cover plate, but should there be an ~inch of space between it and the > body of the engine compartment; i.e. should I be able to see the tranny > from the engine compartment? The missing SP covers are a big deal because they constitute a HUGE cooling air leak, and they are also hard to find. They are probably (someone help me on this) similar to late dual port beetle parts. > Here are the resistance results for the SP wires without the SP > connectors, from longest to shortest: 1017; 994; 1042; 970. Does it > matter which wire goes to which SP? Those are all close enough to 1000 Ohms to be correct. It looks like you have 1000 Ohms in the dist connectors, and you probably also have 1000 Ohms in each SP connector. This will still be fine. Well, you can use any wire for any SP, as long as it is long enough to reach, and as long as it comes from the right place on the dist cap. The actual resistance is unimportant. > What should the resistance for the wire to/from the coil be? I > got infinite with my voltohmmeter set on 2000K ohms. This is bad. There should always be something measurable. Some wire sets have a resistor in the coil connector, you may also have a resistor in the dist cap connector. NONE of your resistance is (or should be) in the wire itself. All the OE connectors just screw into the wires, so you can take everything apart and find out where the problem is. > Let me know if my posts could be distilled even more, I'm really > trying=) They'er distilled, but I think you're trying to cover too much in each message. Try to concentrate on one problem at a time. I realize, however, that at this point it's not clear to you which problems are unrelated. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org