Re: [T3] Severe engine problems...?

[Chris J Valade <redyouth@juno.com>]

Everyone,
        Well, I got all four injectors to work, all I did was switch the
plugs on 3 and 4 and then test them with the key switched to "ON" and
pressing the accelerator from the engine, eventually--not sure why--the
other two started to spray.  

        When I went for a test drive she was still really weak, probably
because of a combination of the generator strap being too loose, bad
timing, low idle (around 700 RPM), running hot, and a (possibly)
defective distributor.  Would this explain low power?  Once I would drive
for a while she would all of a sudden regain power and be like she
should, but she stalled when I had to slow down to make a turn, and
although would start and rev nicely in neutral kept dying when put into
drive--I had to rev and then put it in drive (I know that's bad for the
tranny) to get home (about 3 blocks).

        Since the AAR is basically a thermostat, why does the AT one
require a wire to work?

        One of the bolts that was epoxied in for the generator strap fell
out again, so I won't be able to start her until I get a countersink,
which should be soon.

        When I was testing the injectors as I mentioned, all four
injectors sprayed at the same time, should this occur?  Also, when I was
doing this, the MPC to the trigger contacts weren't attached.  

        That's right, I noticed no difference when the engine was running
and I sucked on the vacuum hose.  I checked the hose and it is fine.  The
plate does move when I suck on it, but only 2 or 3 degrees.  I have to
see if the timing advances when I do this, and I'm going to try it again
incase I didn't notice a difference because two injectors weren't
working.  And the number on the vac can arm is: 265.

        What is the part number for the 009 Bosch distributor I need? 
Even if I don't need a new one altogether, I would like to replace this
instead of a bunch of parts of the old one, besides I was told that the
new Bosch has more power.

        I attempted to reposition the distributor drive shaft since right
now it points at #4 when in TDC #1--it is in nearly the same position, is
this normal?

        I don't have the pieces that are necessary for kickdown on the
accelerator--I will have to buy and install them eventually.

        The flaps are there and wired open.  Could the tin piece I'm
missing around where the SPs go in be the cause?  I do have the front
cover plate, but should there be an ~inch of space between it and the
body of the engine compartment; i.e. should I be able to see the tranny
from the engine compartment?

        Here are the resistance results for the SP wires without the SP
connectors, from longest to shortest: 1017; 994; 1042; 970.  Does it
matter which wire goes to which SP?  

        What should the resistance for the wire to/from the coil be?  I
got infinite with my voltohmmeter set on 2000K ohms.

        Let me know if my posts could be distilled even more, I'm really
trying=)

Sincerely,
Christopher J. Valade

1970 Squareback (AT, FI, w/1972 originally dual carb engine) -- Rosie

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