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On 3 Aug 2003 at 8:18, Heather Woltz wrote: > > You would probably have been better off using the 68 > > FI with the later engine, > > but if you want to switch to the 71 FI then you have > > to switch EVERYTHING, > > including the ECU, the wiring harness, and the > > pressure sensor. > Well when i got the 68 there was a POS single weber > progressive with a later engine (half of the cross > member!!) and a whole bunch of problems. Okay, that was a good thing to get rid of. > When I took the (71) engine out it ran great but it > was an automatic and im not sure if the AT had a > different wiring harness than the manual. on the > wiring diagram there are 2 wires for some AT vacuum > thing? I think that vacuum thing was a CA 72-3 item only. > I have the 71 brain, IAD(cold start inj., throttle valve switch, etc.), > manifolds/injectors, distributer, Air cleaner,fuel pressure reg., fuel > pump and wiring harness. I have not installed the later pressure sensor > but i do have that handy. Its all pretty much 71 once i get the 71 PS > in...BTW when i removed the PS it had oil dripping from it is it > supposed to have oil inside? do i need to oil it again? could it have > rusted from sitting 2 years? The FI will probably work with the 68 PS, but I don't know how well. You need to get a 70-1 PS, which I think is the "C" version. They commonly get oil in them, but they start out air filled. If you can open yours up and dump out the oil that would be a good thing, but not really necessary. Just be careful of the parts inside. > Now i was wondering is the PS hooked into the IAD > (intake air dist.) on the left side under and between > the 2 intake pipes? Yes, check this. > > You need to get ALL the wires connected before you > > can expect things to run > > properly. > > there are only 2 wires that i am not sure about. I > have the bentley manual and it shows the 68-69 70-71 > and the later but the 68-69 it shows how the wiring is > wired through the shrink wrap. The 70-71 shows the > ECU pins and corresponding connector. I was wondering > what is the differnce (added or deleted items) between > 68 and 71 wiring? There are some routing changes, but the main difference is that the 71 throttle valve switch has 4 terminals, rather than 2, and the 71 lacks the pressure switch that the 68 came with. > should I remove my wiring harness and try to rebuild > it or maybe get another 71 wiring harness that is in > better shape? No, stick with what you have, but make sure that it is good. You may have to repair parts that are bad. Poor/loose connections will keep you from success. > When i took this engine out it ran great with this FI > setup. It was sitting for a 2 years and when i > exchanged the flex plate and flywheel and getting > everything prepped I ended up tipping it in its side > and upside down to get to everything (fan shroud, oil > sump etc.) could this have gotten oil in unknown > places that would burn excessively? Sure, was the air cleaner on there when you did this? That could have filled lots of stuff with oil. Otherwise, I'd expect any oil that got out to burn off in a few minutes. When you changed the flex plate did you recheck and reshim the crank end play? You should have. Once you get it running you should also check the charging system regulating voltage. If this is low the FI will run rich. You should get ~14 V measured at the battery at med rpm after a drive to warm everything up and bring the battery up to equilibrium. If you measure less than 13.5V replace the voltage regulator with a Bosch 30-019. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org