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On 3 Aug 2003 at 15:59, Rustad, James R wrote: > Yes, Russ, I think all is ok now. I saw the part no. earlier on the > cooler and its a dual pressure relief valve case, so I am just about > positive I have a late case and a late cooler, which would also be > consistent with the year of the car. So that would mean I go with > thin seals and no spacers. This is consistent with what I could see by > inspecting and feeling. Yes, you need the thin flanged seals which have the same sized hole on each side with no spacers. I have seen these in black, red, and green rubber, so color is not a useful indicator. They should be torqued down until you get metal to metal contact, although I've often wondered if using a thin washer here would be a good idea. MOST of the gasket sets that I've seen do NOT include the correct seal for this. This is most unusual because the seal you need is also the one required for all beetles from 70-on, and from 71-on each beetle needs 4 of them. I'll send you my FAQ on this to reassure you. > At least this time if it leaks I won't take the engine out. Though it > looks pretty nearly impossible to get the tin off and replace the > cooler with the engine in the car. Maybe easier in the end just to take > it out anyway. It is a pain, but you CAN do this with the engine in the car. It is actually not that bad with a freshly built engine since none of the cooling tin bolts will be seized up with rust yet. In my opinion this is easier than removing the engine to do it. -- ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list | mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org