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<x-charset windows-1255>I have FINALLY got around to adjusting my car's valves, and FINALLY found something that was actually easier than the books and people on the list have made it out to be. (Of course knowing me I may have done the whole thing wrong and just not realised it, but in the mean time I am living with the delusion that it went very smoothly) ALL the valves were tight, and one seemed to have no gap at all. Half way through I realised that I could overcome my inexperience by adjusting to what I thought was .006" and then making sure that the .008" feeler won't go through, so I went back to cylinders 1 and 2 and found that they were too loose. I understand from all sorts of sources that a loose valve in far less serious than a tight one so if it's .007" I hope it doesn't matter. Two other things I found were helpful: use a socket with an extension to undo the adjusters, 'cause it saves your knuckles, and don't forget to take off your sunglasses before you get under the car. The valve covers were the dirtiest thing I have ever seen. I didn't glue the gaskets on, following advice from everyone except Muir. I just used a coating of grease to hold them in place. The old gaskets seem to be made of plastic, while my new ones look like cork. So I turned the engine on after I had finished, and frankly it didn't sound much different, which I understand is not necessarily a bad thing, as loose valves clatter. Muir is right though, it does give you a feeling of intimacy with the car, and if I were to descend into really extreme Muir-dom, I would say that the car seemed to sound happier after it was done :~) Groovy man! Daniel Baum, '69 Type 34 automatic. PS Why does an early (1963 I think) Type 34 user manual say that you should adjust the valves to .012" (.30mm)? ------------------------------------------------------------------- List info at http://www.vwtype3.org/list or mailto:help@vwtype3.org </x-charset>