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One more piece of info which I think is relevant. If I catch it in time before it conks out, and put it into neutral, it will pick up and keep running. I think if the petrol was slopping and flooding something as Dave suggested this wouldn't happen. I think it is likely that the air cleaner is acting almost like a choke and making it run richer. As I know that rich = death when the car is in gear, I think I need to make it even leaner to get it running. Daniel Baum 1969 Type 34 automatic http://www.qldesign.com/type34 > Thanks to Dave and Ben for your suggestions. > > I am still working on the assumption that I still just need to tweak the > carbs a bit more to get it going properly. I have been getting nearer and > nearer so there is no reason to assume that a bit more tweaking won't get me > there eventually. It is mostly taking a long time because I don't have that > much time to work on it, not because I have been working for weeks with no > result. > > As far as I remember the needle valves are brand new. When I really get to > the point that I feel I have tried everything, then I will start taking the > carbs apart and looking for other problems. I'm not sure what "icing up" > means in a carb context. > > I also think that putting the air cleaner on has put the existing adjustment > out of whack, necessitating a bit more tweaking. I have done some already > and improved it, but not cured the problem completely. > > It does seem however that the dual carbs + automatic transmission > combination is not a particularly happy one, possibly particularly non-NOS > carbs with 35 year old tranny and old engine. The drop in RPM when you put > it in gear seems to make it particularly problematic to adjust the carbs, > and there is no advice on how to do this in the manuals. > > > Daniel Baum > 1969 Type 34 automatic > http://www.qldesign.com/type34 > > > > on 27/12/2002 11:59 PM, Daniel Baum at dbaum@isdn.net.il wrote: > > > > > Anyone have any ideas, other than trial and error until it works? > Personally > > > I suspect that the idle circuit is still fractionally too rich. Also, > should > > > there be any difference between working with the air cleaner and without > it? > > > All my tuning up to now has been without it, and it seems a bit > different > > > (it seems to behave as if it is running slightly richer) since I put it > > > back. I have put new O-rings on the carbs, which seal very well. > > > > I have found that I get better results if I perform the whole usual > tune-up > > procedure, then put the air cleaner back on, then readjust the mixture to > > get it just right. > > > > Also, I find the idle slows down (mixture richens) when I put the breather > > pipe back on the air cleaner so I always set the idle about 50 rpm higher > > than what I want to compensate. > > > > The behaviour that you are experiencing almost makes it sound like the > carbs > > are icing up, but I have never heard of that with dual carbs on a VW > before. > > > > Ben Doughney > > > > '75 1200L > > '63 1200 - Ringo > > '71 1600TL > > > > http://members.tripod.com/~superkafer/ > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------ > > To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> > > For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ > > > ------------------------------------------------ > To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> > For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/