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Thanks for the input guys, here are some replies leading to more questions. >> I never even messed with the >> adjustment screw as I had thought, it was only the cap screw plug that covers >> the adjustment screw. >I don't think the 68-9 PS has a separate cap screw. If you have a cap that is >just ~1/2" diameter, then it is likely that this is not the correct PS for your >car. I am quit sure this is the original PS for my '69. If it were '70 then the pressure switch would be incorporated and it would have a different electrical connector. I did own a '70 and it also had a cap screw cover although the unit was different. Is there a number located on the PS that I can use to determine if it is the correct unit for my car? >> I have very cautiously timed the car with the vacuum advance disconnected >> and plugged, RPM @ 900, engine warm, valves set, at 0deg as stated in all >> the literature that I have. (Is this how all of you do it?) >This sounds perfect. Does anyone intentionally retard there timing a few degrees to help run cooler? >It is completely normal to be able to see the ground all around the type 3 >engine. Of course you should not be able to see THROUGH the engine. As >Mark stated, your cooling air intake bellows at the rear of the engine MUST >be installed and in good condition. I do have the tin on the cylinders, I was referring to seeing the pavement just next to the motor well side walls and below the bellows which is intact and in excellent condition. >The 68-9 FI injectors have ground wires that run to bolts to the heads. These >often lose good electrical contact when they are heat cycled a few times. >When this happens you will lose both injectors on that side. You can fix this >by running a ground wire extension to some part of the case that does not >get as hot, or you can install a Belleville washer under the heads of the >ground screws. I will try the injector ground solution Jim referred, when it happens my car is definitely still running to some degree, not a complete stall condition. I will also look through my Bentley manual to try and confirm all the tin is present. If that doesn't satisfy me, I will take a picture and post it. If it was shutting down due to the temp. sensor, would it have started backup with-in one minute (as it did) or would cool down be more about 20 minutes? And wouldn't the temp sensor also create a total stall condition? Thanks again. ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/