Re: [T3] Over heating, timing?

["Mark McAtee" <Mark.McAtee@paccar.com>]

Thanks for the input guys, here are some replies leading to more questions.

>> I never even messed with the
>> adjustment screw as I had thought, it was only the cap screw plug that
covers
>> the adjustment screw. 

>I don't think the 68-9 PS has a separate cap screw. If you have a cap that
is 
>just ~1/2" diameter, then it is likely that this is not the correct PS for
your 
>car.

I am quit sure this is the original PS for my '69. If it were '70 then the
pressure switch would be incorporated and it would have a different
electrical connector. I did own a '70 and it also had a cap screw cover
although the unit was different. Is there a number located on the PS that I
can use to determine if it is the correct unit for my car?

>> I have very cautiously timed the car with the vacuum advance disconnected
>> and plugged, RPM @ 900, engine warm, valves set, at 0deg as stated in all
>> the literature that I have. (Is this how all of you do it?)

>This sounds perfect.

Does anyone intentionally retard there timing a few degrees to help run
cooler?

>It is completely normal to be able to see the ground all around the type 3 
>engine. Of course you should not be able to see THROUGH the engine. As 
>Mark stated, your cooling air intake bellows at the rear of the engine MUST

>be installed and in good condition.

I do have the tin on the cylinders, I was referring to seeing the pavement
just next to the motor well side walls and below the bellows which is intact
and in excellent condition. 

>The 68-9 FI injectors have ground wires that run to bolts to the heads.
These 
>often lose good electrical contact when they are heat cycled a few times. 
>When this happens you will lose both injectors on that side. You can fix
this 
>by running a ground wire extension to some part of the case that does not 
>get as hot, or you can install a Belleville washer under the heads of the 
>ground screws.

I will try the injector ground solution Jim referred, when it happens my car
is definitely still running to some degree, not a complete stall condition.
I will also look through my Bentley manual to try and confirm all the tin is
present. If that doesn't satisfy me, I will take a picture and post it. 

If it was shutting down due to the temp. sensor, would it have started
backup with-in one minute (as it did) or would cool down be more about 20
minutes? And wouldn't the temp sensor also create a total stall condition?

Thanks again.











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