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<x-charset iso-8859-1>Hello- Spend the cash on balancing and a real oil filter. Both of these modifications are worth their weight in gold - the few bucks spent here will pay off even on a dead stocker. However, especially for a dead stock engine, counterweighting the crank is questionable when you are on a tight budget. Take care, Shad Laws LN Engineering - Aircooled Precision Performance http://www.LNengineering.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana Greeley" <greeley@pmel.noaa.gov> To: <type3@vwtype3.org> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 11:33 AM Subject: [T3] Rimco & Berg cost estimates > Sorry, this got kinda long, please bear with me. > It's time to rebuild my engine. I searched through the archives > and see suggestions but no dollar estimates. > I'm a cheapskate and more specifically do not have money to > throw around. I have a local shop and an estimate from them > (they do excellent work but also charge for it). > > By the way, it is a 1600 from a '71 fastback with FI and stock > exhaust that I'm asking about. > I do not plan any high performance mods - just want a stock engine > that will last a while. > Therefore, could someone give me some rough estimates > on the following? I thank you in advance. You could also > reply back just to me (greeley@pmel.noaa.gov) unless > you feel your info would benefit the list. > > 1) Send the case and rods to RIMCO (from WA state). > > 2) RIMCO labor: Have them Align bore the case, provide a main bearing set sized > to fit this case and crankshaft. Install case savers with a deep sink stud > on #3. Have them rebuild the rods. > > 3) RIMCO parts: Cam & rod bearing sets and gasket set. > > 4) Send moving parts (Crank, flywheel, rods, pistons, pressure plate, fan, pulley) > to Gene Berg. > > 5) Ask Berg to counterweight crank, straighten if need be, and polish and balance with > other parts sent. > > 6) Did I forget something? > > Additionally - I'm not completely sold on the idea of a full flow > oil filter system. Do you all consider this a necessary modification > for a 1600 or is it something to be considered for higher > performance end types. The way I have it figured is, > if you change your oil every 2,000 miles > you should be ok with the standard system and screen. > I should add that I am leary of this modification as I lost a hose on a > 68 van that required dropping the engine to get to the connection. > This was in the tropical rain, in-between Antigua and Guatemala City. > Luckily it was mostly downhill and we had plenty of oil to keep > "topping it off" on our coast down to a covered parking lot. > But that's another story... > > > ------------------------------------------------ > To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> > For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ > > ------------------------------------------------ To unsubscribe, E-mail to: <type3-off@vwtype3.org> For more help, see http://vwtype3.org/list/ </x-charset>