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Re: [T3] Rimco & Berg cost estimates


> > 6) Did I forget something?
> 
> You might want to send the rods to RIMCO first and get them
> rebuilt before 
> balancing.

Quite true: it wouldn't make sense to balance something and then
change it.  Besides, rod work isn't that complicated...
 
> > Additionally - I'm not completely sold on the idea of a full
> flow
> > oil filter system. Do you all consider this a necessary
> modification
> > for a 1600 or is it something to be considered for higher
> > performance end types. The way I have it figured is,
> > if you change your oil every 2,000 miles
> > you should be ok with the standard system and screen.
> 
> For longevity I would add the full flow filter before the
> counterweighted crank 
> and balanced engine parts. You could do without both of these
> options, but I 
> would not skip sending the case to RIMCO.

Not that I have a lot of rebuild experience, but here's my $.02
USD in order of importance, from a reliability standpoint:

1. Case integrity (align-bore, no cracks, case savers)
2. Evaluate/machine/replace sealing surfaces
   (rings, valves/lifters/seats, heads, gaskets, cylinder walls)
3. Evaluate/machine/replace wear/bearing surfaces
   (mains/journals, rods, crank, cylinders, pistons, cam)
4. Adjust compression to prevent detonation on pump gas
5. Static balancing of piston assemblies and head volume
6. Dynamic balancing, full-flow oiling, deep sump, etc. 

So basically, make sure the motor won't crack, bleed, or smoke
anytime soon.  Then consider replacing major moving parts (if
they're bad or you just want extra life), make sure you prevent
detonation, and finally think about making it super smooth.  I
wouldn't suggest #6 unless you drive it hard or want the motor
to outlast you, but I do recommend a magnetic drain plug and no
more than 2000 miles between oil changes.

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