Re: [T3] Suspension fixed was rotted needle bearings

["Jim Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org>]

On 12 May 2001, at 23:34, Leon Martinez B. wrote:

> I had to step drill the long hole on the swaybar, the set screw is
> very snug now. 

You can also just turn the bar over and drill a completely fresh 
dimple on the other side.

> I placed a good deal of teflon tape on the bar ends to make up for
> the loose fit. 

Teflon is WAY too soft to survive there, in fact I don't think any 
synthetic would hold up to the stresses this part sees. It is likely 
that if you torqued the set screw well, then the Teflon is already 
squished out of the way, which is better than having it loosen up 
slowly in the future. Still, you should check and retighten that set 
screw in a week.
 
> The fixed suspension makes my car feel newer somehow. 

Yes! This is a common problem and they never ride right until this 
is set straight.

> The lower ball joints are so shot that you can
> probably mesure the play with a regular ruler.

Check the Bentley manual for the way to measure the play. The 
method they describe is a bit clumsy, but you can mock up 
something that will work just as well. I use a special clamp I made 
and measure with a vernier caliper.

The OE ball joints have a spring in them which the aftermarket 
ones do not. As long as you are within the wear limit given in 
Bentley you will be fine.

> These horrors came from the last four owners who
> probably did not grease the suspension for 
> 30 years and I have all of their maintainence
> records, I guess their mechanics did not not
> know the top greasers existed so the two 
> arms rotted away as they were lubricated
> with rust and water.

Exactly right! A common problem, and the reason that one of the 
first things I do when I first see a type 3 is to lube ALL 4 ZERKS.

> Sugestions and possible replacements:
> Everyone must grease their suspensions.

YES! YES! YES!

> I will see if the arms can be rebuilt at an industrial machine shop
> that can place chrome sleeves on them or be rechromed 

I hadn't thought of sleeving them; that might work. They don't need 
to be chrome. I had wondered about welding and remachining, but I 
was concerned about the effects of the heat.

> The outer seals can be replaced by right size 'o' rings and the
> thrust bushings can be replaced with brass ones made by a machine
> shop with a good lathe. 

We can do plastic welding at work. I wonder if your old ones could 
be built up and remachined? If you still have them would you 
consider letting me try?

> The inner bushings Can be replaced with newly made brass ones from
> a machineshop. Bearings, I will try to find replacement and report
> these to the list, 

I should check with my machinist. I know he has listings for journal 
bearings by size and he might just be able to match these. I doubt 
we'll find replacements for the needle bearings anywhere, but 
someone else suggested a synthetic replacement. This just might 
work. Boston gear makes a plastic bushing material that might be 
great for this, but the bearing surfaces on the arms would have to 
be perfect. If the stresses were just a bit high, we could make the 
plastic bushings a little longer than the needles to spread them 
out. I think there's room to double the length in there.

-
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Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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