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Sounds like you have a number of problems there. I can't solve them all, but here's how I set valves: I use the generator nut to turn the engine over so I go clockwise, like for tightening it and start with #4. That way the timing mark hole doesn't get beat up trying to bar the crank around with a screwdriver, wood block or what have you and I can check the generator belt's tightness at the same time. If it slips, it isn't tight enough. It's kind of hard to just read about setting valves as far as figuring out just what a properly set one is like with the feeler guage and how hard/easy it slips out. It's the kind of thing best demostrated in person. Anyway, I crank around until #1 lines up, then a half turn to the blank area on the other side of the crank to get #4 ready. After I get the valve cover off, I like to check to see how much play there is on the rockers, so I move them back and forth between the valve stem and the pushrod, both intake and exhaust should have the same amount of play. If there is no play or the valve is compressed, something isn't right and you need to check the position of the crank or the adjustment on the rocker arm. You might also have a seat sinking into the head or a valve stem stretching, so it pays to keep on top of the clearances. Did I mention the thing has to be stone-cold? Anyway, you just keep barring the crank around a half turn at a time, alternating between the TDC marking and that blank area on the opposite side. My test for proper clearance is to be able to put the feeler gauge into the gap and push/pull on the rocker. If I don't feel any movement and the gauge is easy to slip in and out, I consider that good and go on to the next one. This takes me about 10 minutes once the tools are out and the hatch is open. One thing that helps is that I've bought a 12" strip of .006" feeler gauge form an industrial supply place, cost was about $.75 at the time. The longer length makes it fairly easy to get in there, you don't have to wrestle with a whole bunch of short leaves like is on a regular ignition set. I also bought one for the distributor gap at the same time. It was Starrett brand, you should be able to find a distributor in any fairly large city if you'd like to try it out.. I get to do this tomorrow, part of the quarterly routine, along with setting the brakes. Gas in the oil can be bad news, you've either got a lot of blow-by or the thing is really running rich. You can check for bad rings with a compression gauge, if you've got the equipment or can borrow/rent it. Compression gauges are fairly cheap, Sears carries a decent one. Rich running can be from low voltage or bad regulator ground causing same, and/or air leaks just about anywhere around the air distributor. Usually hard and cracked hoses will do that, also those rubber sleeves on the air distributor that connect to the runners can get hard, too. They need periodic replacement just like the other hoses. Hope all this stuff helps you out. On Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:02:49 PST, you wrote: > >another question, this seems really dumb on my part but what the hell. >the last time i did my valves i remember being a little confused. >i have a 1970 fi square. according to muir, after doing #1 "rotate the >engine counterclockwise until you come to the next timing mark", which for >me is the one in the center of the 3. >but....i only have to rotate my engine maybe a couple of inches >counterclockwise to hit this mark. >so do i do the valves then, or do i go past the mark and around another 180 >and do it? cause both methods yield different results...i forget what i >ended up doing... > > >mark. >70 square fi. > ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/