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On Wed, 10 Nov 1999, mark kaylor wrote: > well i must say i've never had so many frustrating experiences related to > any car in my life. my square is really testing my patience. Ah! welcome to the economical world of old cars!;p > i'm tired of dealing with the starting situation, so now i disconnect the > ground strap on the battery every time the car will be sitting for awhile. > and it works. go figure. as far as i can tell there's no shorts but its the Does it spark when you attach the wire? even the the very very least? Yes? you .do. have a short. Or .something. that is drawing electricit ask, and i can give you a detailed breakdown to help you find that problem. > another question, this seems really dumb on my part but what the hell. Not dumb. A very important question, actually. > the last time i did my valves i remember being a little confused. > i have a 1970 fi square. according to muir, after doing #1 "rotate the > engine counterclockwise until you come to the next timing mark", which for > me is the one in the center of the 3. > but....i only have to rotate my engine maybe a couple of inches > counterclockwise to hit this mark. First thing to check here is if this second mark that you are finding is indeed a factory mark. VW pulleys seem to pick up all sorts of various marks by POs that cant evr seem to correspond to anything (and perhaps this is why they dont own them anymore....). Then, if it is indeed factory, make sure you are at the right mark to start with!;) Its been a few years since i had my square, so i dont remember off hand. After all of that, you need to recall that Muir wrote his book in 1969....and then added parts to it. He also tends to lean more specificly toward the upright engines, of which many early pulleys only have the one mark..usually at TDC. > so do i do the valves then, or do i go past the mark and around another 180 > and do it? cause both methods yield different results...i forget Continue to 180 degress from TDC for #1...that will be TDC for #2. Then 180 degress there puts you back to the first notch, which is TDC for #3...180 more and you are at TDC for #4. A check to be sure you are on the correct cylinder's TDC (also helpful for those times when you are unsure of the distr. drive shaft orientation..): Rotate the engine to what you suspect to be #1 TDC. Open the 1/2 (passenger) valve cover. With the help of a friend, a trick mirror setup, or a long flexible neck, watch the rockers for #1 (or whatver other cylinder you wish to specificly check..) and rotate the engine back and forth across TDC 5 or so degrees each way. At TDC, the rockers will .not. move. #2 will have a valve move obviously, but the 2 for the TDC cylider wont. > and one last thing...could my engine noise have anything to do with the fact > that my oil is really really beat, as in black, very runny, and very full of > gas? just wondering.... Could. And you need to correct this gassy oil problem ASAP. It could be the cause of your low oil pressure at idle, your knock, and can very well cause much further damage to your engine quickly. Gasoline is .not. a lubricant, and is rather prone to destroy the lubricating properties of your oil.... ...d -- David Raistrick '69 Westy-Ichigo (retired:( ) keen@type2.com '82 Westy-Maxine (Mom's) '66 SO-44 Westy (Daily Driver) in Augusta Ga ------------------------------------------------------------------- Unsubscribe? mailto:type3-request@vwtype3.org, Subject: unsubscribe