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Re: Oil Cooler: Type 3 Engine




Jim Adney wrote:

> Actually, IIRC, the 2 oil cooler hole bores are slightly different
> sizes so I'm not really sure what measures 10mm, This is just what
> "everyone" describes them as. I believe the holes in the actual
> cooler are 10mm.

Probably an average.

>
> Two thoughts:
>
> 1) Did you realize that our pressures are always "low" compared to
> what most engines measure? In other words, did you only start to
> investigate this carefully AFTER the rebuild?

Yes, I am aware of the lower pressure, but surely the light isn't supposed to flicker
at idle after 5 minutes of drivinÉ´‹’olds barely enough pressure at cold, to keep
the light from flicking) The oil light flickered before the rebuild, that was what led
me to do the rebuild in the first place. I also bought the largest oil pump available
to fit between the fan housing and engine case, I believe it was a 26 mm pump.
Pressure was fine above 1500 rpm, at 2000 rom it is 3 kgs, at 3500 it is at 7 kgs, but
the idle pressure is just too low.

> The actual pressure
> necessary for lubrication is generated hydrodynamically within the
> bearing by the motion of the journal within the bearing--this
> pressure is NOT dependent on input pressure, although it IS increased
> by FLOW in and decreased by wide clearances that increase flow OUT.

Yes, indeed based on the back pressure. If the bearing clearances are too great, the
oil will flow right through, thus not creating a pressure in the system, or at least
the correct pressure.

I still suspect the oil pump, I checked everything that concerns the oil system,
either it was replaced or found within specs. And doing a second rebuild on the same
engine after 1 week is not fun either. That was what I did then. After the second
rebuild, I have driven the car for about three months. Now, I haven't driven it in 18
months, (not only because of the oil pressure) and I miss it soooo much!

PerL
73 Wagon

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