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On 23 Jan 99, at 7:49, Steven Ayres wrote: > Don't take this as gospel, but this is how I've been taught: The > indicator is the washer under the spindle nut. When the tension is > correct, you can *just* move the washer with a screwdriver. I have seen this method in some of the older manuals. It works, sort of, but its failing is that it's so subjective: How much force am I allowed to put on that washer in order to get it to move. The point of adjusting is to make sure that there is always SOME play in the bearings, because if the amount of play goes "below" zero the forces on the bearing races skyrocket and they will fail from fatigue much more quickly. Too much play, on the other hand, will give sloppy handling and will also have adverse effects on the bearings, as well as other parts of the suspension. I have found from experience, using a dial gauge, that if you do the bearing adjustment with the wheel and tire in place (and the car jacked up!) then the "book" adjustment leads to an amount of play that is easily discernable by just grabbing the tire and wobbling the wheel back and forth. My usual method now is to adjust the bearings as tight as I can while still being sure I can feel play at the edge of the tire with one hand. You MUST make sure that you still have play in ALL rotational positions of the wheel, and you MUST check this AFTER the split/clamping adjustment nut is locked. Tightening the socket head bolt changes the adjustment. This will leave you at the bottom end of the factory endplay spec. Jim - ******************************* Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org Madison, Wisconsin, USA ******************************* ------------------------------------------------------------------- Search old messages on the Web! Visit http://www.vwtype3.org/list/