Re: [T3] Slipping Clutch

[stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)]

There comes a time in everyone's life when they just have to replace
some parts.  You have just hit that point.  I think my last refurb 2-3
years back cost like $5-10 for a throwout bearing, $30 for  flywheel
resurfacing, $5 for a gland nut, $20-30 for a clutch cover and $15-20
for a clutch plate.  I replaced the flywheel o-ring(which got hard and
leaked) and the outer seal for like $2.  Recommended to replace both.
Means you'll have to scout up a big socket for the gland nut, plus a
big breaker bar and a piece of pipe for a cheater  to remove the
flywheel.   I didn't when I put the engine in(used) and suffered the
consequences. 

 Don't let the fact that you have to pull the engine slow you down.
Just take it easy, one step at a time.  The parts are common, any bug
shop should have them.  You may have to hunt for a machine shop to do
the resurfacing, a couple I went to wouldn't touch anything but a flat
flywheel.   Squirt some lube into the clutch tube while you've got the
thing out, too, wouldn't hurt.  Muir has a pretty good grasp of the
engine pulling process.  You'll need a substantial floor jack, I use a
2 1/2 ton Chinese one that I picked up as a refurb for $25.  There's
some compact ones with a small post, don't try to use one of those.
Lift is 15 1/2".   Rent one if you have to.  Good ramps and stands are
a must, I use a pair of Sears that are just the right height, have
removable ramps, leaves a lot of room to scoot around underneath. Easy
to store, too.

The main change in procedure from the Bentley manual that I do is that
I don't pull the tranny when I just need the engine out.  Saves having
to retorque all those stupid CV bolts. Just drop the engine a few
inches to clear the rear plenum, then undo the engine-tranny bolts and
nuts and pull to the rear.  The downside is that you have to try to
get the clutch splines lined up with the tranny shaft on the install.
Takes some jockeying with a wrench on the generator to turn the crank
until the thing goes together, like most things, practice makes
perfect.  If you do it this way, make sure you've got a jackstand
under the tranny so the nosecone and mount don't get overstressed.  I
usually do the removal(and install) single-handed and not having to
balance the tranny while shoving the thing around makes a lot of
difference.  Make sure you get all the FI harness connections(if
that's what you've got) marked as to where they go.  Nothing like
trying to figure out whether an injector plug goes to #1 or #2.

This is a perfect weekend job, provided you can get someplace where
it's well lighted and out of the cold. You will have to find a machine
shop to resurface your flywheel.   A hard surface to move things
around is a must, too.  A couple of sheets of cardboard laid down will
facilitate dragging the engine out to where you can get to work on it.
It takes me like 45 minutes(after a lot of practice) to get the engine
out and about 1 1/2 hours to get it back in and running.  It really
isn't that bad.

Hope all this stuff helps.


On Fri, 6 Nov 1998 08:33:03 -0500, you wrote:

>Dear Fellow Listee's:
>
>I have to the point that I knew I would eventually come. My clutch is
>slipping and I have adjusted all the way out. I have been gingerly
>driving it for a couple of weeks. I was able to finally straighten out
>my engine problems - Remember "Old and Tired?" However, It seems the
>clutch can not handle the new found power. 
>
>My question is: How much is a clutch, pressure plate, and throw out
>bearing? Where is the best place to get parts? Is this a job I can do
>over a weekend? My book says to remove the engine - arrgh! Any
>suggestions would be helpful. 
>
>Gary Fisher
>73 Square
>Greenville, SC
>
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