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Yes, you must remove the engine to get at the clutch; but I'm pretty sure that's the recipe for just about any car on the road (unless they say drop the transmission, either way it's ugly). BAP sells the whole she-bang as a kit (including a little plastic doo-hickey for clutch disc-input shaft alignment -- very handy), that includes disc, bearing and plate, for $90 to $120. My 71 cost like $91.71 or something. I had a friend help me, and with nothing other than a *really* big floor jack, we had the job *done* in 4.25 hours (like 1 hour longer than the VW book says it would take a shop). Oh yeah, and while you're at it, replace the rear (front?) main seal. That's the sole reason I had to replace my clutch. The PO gave me the receipt for the clutch in the car that was only a month old when she parked it. The seal gave out, dumped oil on the disc, and *zoom*; no go. The disc is still like brand new; oil soaked, but nice, crisp ridges. Lots of meat. James 'do it right or do it twice' MacNaughton '71 Variant FI/Manual > ---------- > From: Fisher, Gary[SMTP:GaryF@ttc-inc.com] > Sent: Friday, November 06, 1998 7:33 AM > To: 'type3@vwtype3.org' > Subject: [T3] Slipping Clutch > > Dear Fellow Listee's: > > I have to the point that I knew I would eventually come. My clutch is > slipping and I have adjusted all the way out. I have been gingerly > driving it for a couple of weeks. I was able to finally straighten out > my engine problems - Remember "Old and Tired?" However, It seems the > clutch can not handle the new found power. > > My question is: How much is a clutch, pressure plate, and throw out > bearing? Where is the best place to get parts? Is this a job I can do > over a weekend? My book says to remove the engine - arrgh! Any > suggestions would be helpful. > > Gary Fisher > 73 Square > Greenville, SC > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe >