[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] [New Search]
Oops! I did mean power and not compression... <embarressed look> That's what I get for trying to type a technical email while running around frantically. :) We did the injector wire test....two of the wires were loose. We took care of that. Took it for another test drive and had the car lose so much power it died again. But we think we found the problem. The temperature sensor that lives under the engine on the left side had gone out a few weeks ago and we bought a replacement..but the replacement had a female end and so did the wiring harness it was supposed to plug into. We found a crimp on connector that allowed us to get them connected...apparently though the connection wasn't perfect....so the computer was getting erratic readings from the sensor. We're redoing the connection right now in hopes that will fix the problem. Also, we have for now disconnected the pressure switch until at least next weekend. If the car behaves all week we'll try connecting it when we do our next full tune-up job. Becky '69 AT FI Fastback > At 2:20 PM +0000 3/8/98, northaven@worldnet.att.net wrote: > >We determined that the pressure > >switch is working as it was designed to (whether or not its design is > >compatable with my car is another question). We took it for a test > > Pressure switches (under the right side intake manifold) appear > only on 1968 and 1969 cars; I doubt that they changed from 68 to 69, > though I could be wrong. > > (All of 'em have pressure *sensors* to the left of the engine; > early, mid ['70 & '71] and late; all have throttle position sensors, > but '68 & '69 are the same--or at least should appear to be.) > > >drive and almost didn't make it back. It lost so much compression > >trying to come back it was probably only running on 1 or 2 > >cylinders....we forced it back and are back at square one...help? > > Careful with language! Lost power, yes; but can only tell if it > lost compression if you do a proper compression test (shoving a > compression tester gauge where the spark plugs should be). > > If you can get it to just idle, you can pull plug wires, removing > one at a time & then reinstalling. If you pull a wire, the engine > should run worse. If it does *not* run worse, then there is a > problem associated with that cylinder > (plug/wire/injector/valves/etc.). > > Note that with the injected car, you can pull injector wires in > turn instead of pulling the high-voltage ignition wires. Less > chance of shock. > > By the way--poorly connected/connecting injection system electrical > connectors can cause the car to run *miserably*. The ones I've had > the most problems with are the individual injector connectors and > the one on the trigger points in the distributor. > > -Greg > '69 & '71 Squarebacks > '63 Beetle > >