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At 2:20 PM +0000 3/8/98, northaven@worldnet.att.net wrote: >We determined that the pressure >switch is working as it was designed to (whether or not its design is >compatable with my car is another question). We took it for a test Pressure switches (under the right side intake manifold) appear only on 1968 and 1969 cars; I doubt that they changed from 68 to 69, though I could be wrong. (All of 'em have pressure *sensors* to the left of the engine; early, mid ['70 & '71] and late; all have throttle position sensors, but '68 & '69 are the same--or at least should appear to be.) >drive and almost didn't make it back. It lost so much compression >trying to come back it was probably only running on 1 or 2 >cylinders....we forced it back and are back at square one...help? Careful with language! Lost power, yes; but can only tell if it lost compression if you do a proper compression test (shoving a compression tester gauge where the spark plugs should be). If you can get it to just idle, you can pull plug wires, removing one at a time & then reinstalling. If you pull a wire, the engine should run worse. If it does *not* run worse, then there is a problem associated with that cylinder (plug/wire/injector/valves/etc.). Note that with the injected car, you can pull injector wires in turn instead of pulling the high-voltage ignition wires. Less chance of shock. By the way--poorly connected/connecting injection system electrical connectors can cause the car to run *miserably*. The ones I've had the most problems with are the individual injector connectors and the one on the trigger points in the distributor. -Greg '69 & '71 Squarebacks '63 Beetle