[T3] caught with my amps down...

[Jake Kooser <jake_k@ibm.net>]

Hey volks, I got the engine from my '71 squareback into my '73 fastback
over Christmas day.  I hooked everything up, cranked the engine w/o any
spark plugs to get the oil pressure up, then reinstalled the plugs.  To
my delight, it fired up on the first turn of the key (no sh*t!).  This
engine has been sitting for over a year and a half without running.  Try
that with a carbed engine.  I noticed while I was doing some general
checking things out that the fuel pump was running all of the time.  It
didn't shut off after 1.5 seconds after turning off the key, either.  I
decided to hook up the FI tester that I have to the system, since it has
a fuel pump circuit test, and went through the entire procedure.  Every
check passed except the fuel pump, and many of the tests fired the
injectors.  I found that the wire for the pump was loose, reconnected it
and got the correct shut-off after turning the key.  BUT, now the engine
won't start.  At first, I thought all those injector firings from the
tester had flooded the engine, but after checking the plugs (the next
day) and finding them dry, I've ruled that out.  I hooked up my timing
light and the coil isn't firing.  I swapped distributors, since I have
the one from the '73 engine - thinking that maybe my old Pertronix had
died.  No luck.  I checked the voltage to the coil with the key on, only
9.3V.  This with a brand-new Optima battery.  The FI tester is powered
from the vehicle in test, I think maybe that this drained the battery. 
I'm charging the battery overnight to see what happens tomorrow evening
when I'll next have time to fool with it.
     Another note, when I figured out that the battery needed charged, I
turned my attention to a couple of minor oil leaks.  One of them is the
pushrod tubes on the driver's side - is there a fairly easy way to
change seals with the engine in the car?  I know from experience that
getting the tin off with the engine in is a real pain.  The other leak
was from the 'road draft' tube that connects the breather box to the oil
filler tube just above the oil filler's connection to the engine.  The
hose was kind of squished, so I tried to get it to connect better, in
the process dumping oil all down my arm.  I'll replace the tube soon,
but what bothered me was that the oil (Castrol 20W/50) was as thin as
water and smelled like gas.  Is this a result of the injectors juicing
things up during my FI testing?  This engine was re-ringed only ~5k
miles ago, but I didn't get a valve job due to low finances.  Time for a
valve job?  I'll also have compression test results Monday night or
Tuesday morning, just haven't done it yet.

TIA,

Jake Kooser

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