Re: [T3] caught with my amps down...

[stans4@ix.netcom.com (Stan Schaefer)]

Congrats on at least getting it going once.

I use some aftermatket telescoping spring-type pushrod tubes, work
like a champ, no leaks and relatively easy to install with the heads
on(stock engine, though).  Don't recall the brand but they're pretty
spendy, $45/set last I looked.  Gold anodized alumninum, silicone
o-rings and end seals.  Think they were J-Bugs or something like that.
The only real way I know to replace a tube without tearing the head
off.  Your's still going to end up getting the bottom tin off, no fun
there.  Don't get sold a set of plastic tubes, those are definitely
junk.

On your breather box hose, I replaced mine on the last rebuild when I
had the fan housing off, not sure how easy it would be to get to with
everything in place.  Kind of hidden back in there.  About the only
way I can see to get to it is maybe to drain the oil and take off the
filler fitting off the crankcase, you might be able to wrestle a new
piece back on there from the bottom.  Not something I'd like to do in
cold weather.

To check out injectors, I have a spare distrib., just plug in the
trigger point plug and crank it around by hand.  You should be able to
hear the injectors firing, part of the load I carry around for
diagnostic purposes.  If I have spark and the injectors are firing,
it's got to be something else.

You've probably checked this, but it's happened to me a bunch of
times.  Make sure the tubing to the pressure sensor is on both ends,
it's really easy to get it knocked off under the air distributor where
it can't be seen and then you get full rich, because the controller
thinks you've got a wide open throttle.  Doesn't run too well.  You
could also have a stuck cold start injector, that's a remote
possiblility, also the thermo switch for same.  Leads to gas in the
oil really quick.

On Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:16:50 -0500, you wrote:

>Hey volks, I got the engine from my '71 squareback into my '73 fastback
>over Christmas day.  I hooked everything up, cranked the engine w/o any
>spark plugs to get the oil pressure up, then reinstalled the plugs.  To
>my delight, it fired up on the first turn of the key (no sh*t!).  This
>engine has been sitting for over a year and a half without running.  Try
>that with a carbed engine.  I noticed while I was doing some general
>checking things out that the fuel pump was running all of the time.  It
>didn't shut off after 1.5 seconds after turning off the key, either.  I
>decided to hook up the FI tester that I have to the system, since it has
>a fuel pump circuit test, and went through the entire procedure.  Every
>check passed except the fuel pump, and many of the tests fired the
>injectors.  I found that the wire for the pump was loose, reconnected it
>and got the correct shut-off after turning the key.  BUT, now the engine
>won't start.  At first, I thought all those injector firings from the
>tester had flooded the engine, but after checking the plugs (the next
>day) and finding them dry, I've ruled that out.  I hooked up my timing
>light and the coil isn't firing.  I swapped distributors, since I have
>the one from the '73 engine - thinking that maybe my old Pertronix had
>died.  No luck.  I checked the voltage to the coil with the key on, only
>9.3V.  This with a brand-new Optima battery.  The FI tester is powered
>from the vehicle in test, I think maybe that this drained the battery. 
>I'm charging the battery overnight to see what happens tomorrow evening
>when I'll next have time to fool with it.
>     Another note, when I figured out that the battery needed charged, I
>turned my attention to a couple of minor oil leaks.  One of them is the
>pushrod tubes on the driver's side - is there a fairly easy way to
>change seals with the engine in the car?  I know from experience that
>getting the tin off with the engine in is a real pain.  The other leak
>was from the 'road draft' tube that connects the breather box to the oil
>filler tube just above the oil filler's connection to the engine.  The
>hose was kind of squished, so I tried to get it to connect better, in
>the process dumping oil all down my arm.  I'll replace the tube soon,
>but what bothered me was that the oil (Castrol 20W/50) was as thin as
>water and smelled like gas.  Is this a result of the injectors juicing
>things up during my FI testing?  This engine was re-ringed only ~5k
>miles ago, but I didn't get a valve job due to low finances.  Time for a
>valve job?  I'll also have compression test results Monday night or
>Tuesday morning, just haven't done it yet.
>
>TIA,
>
>Jake Kooser
>
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