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Brad, I'd clean up the rust with a wire wheel or something (3M stripper pads- they mount on a drill and look like monster brillo pads- work great but are pretty spendy-$8) and paint the ratty edges. Also paint your patches, then get some seam-sealer from a body shop ($10 or less). Fit up your patch to the pan, then spooge 'em together. Next, drill one hole, and put in a pop rivet. Repeat as necessary! The riveter ($15) is worth it. Also get steel (not aluminum) rivets. The aluminum actually corrodes! Then, after the seam sealer hardens, paint it again, and NOW undercoat the living daylights out of the whole area. I discovered that undercoat's not necessarily waterproof, and that if you use silicone, NOTHING will stick to it for very long! This might cost a bit more and take a while longer than your plan, but the patch will last a LONG time (5 years in western (salty) New York) and look pretty good. How I used to do it, Toby B who now welds... Brad Johnson wrote: > > Hello List: > > I'm just about to start a floor patching project and would appreciate some > hints. I have a '73 Squareback and the floor pans are rusted thru in spots > but are quite clean in other spots. Rather than replace the whole floor > pans immediately I thought I would try some patching. > > My current plan is to bolt pieces of sheetmetal to the underside of the > floor pan, seal the edges with silicone and undercoat (twice) everything. > > Any (economical) suggestions? > > Thanks. > > Brad Johnson > ------------------------------------------------------------------- Too much? Digest! mailto:type3-d-request@vwtype3.org Subj=subscribe