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On 12 Nov 97, Dan Hirth wrote:
> For over a year, I could not get my fuel gage to work. Previously, I
> determined that the problem was in the sender unit (ground out the
> wire to test it). To fix the sender unit, try removing it from the
> tank (carefully!). Take off the protective housing, and place the
> wires and float in a large glass of concentrated generic detergent for
> about 15 minutes. Dry. Reinstall.
>
> Don't mess with those hair thin wires. I'd hate to have to fix those
> if they broke (probably would never work the same again).
I have gently polished the wires on several of mine with fine
Scotchbrite. I have seen wires that were broken and, yes, you're
right, I was never able to fix them.
> Detergent (without all the fancy additives) is great for stripping
> corrosion off of copper.
I never thought of using detergent. I wouldn't think this would have
any effect on an oxide layer, but it might well eat off a layer of
varnish that had been left by gas in the tank, perhaps if the car sat
for a long time.
> Also, try sanding down the top of the flange where the bolt heads make
> contact (and complete the circuit).
With 6 bolts in parallel, that contact should be no problem.
What kind of trouble were you haveing with your gauge. The times I
have seen problems it was clear that the float was having trouble
making contact to the wire in several specific places on the wire.
So the gauge would work fine most of the time but would "flicker"
when it was, for example, near 5/8 full.
Jim
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Melissa Kepner Jim Adney
Laura Kepner-Adney
jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin
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