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>From Oz T3 Register · The 1965 T3 Panel Van from Wolfsburg Automotive advertised in our Web Page CarMart (from what I see on their latest ad. in Australian VW Scene) is now in their currently wrecking section so if anyone is interested in the vehicle as a unit, I suggest you ring them before there is too many bits removed from it. contact Garry B/hrs. on Victoria 03-93703100. · To Bart Mertens - Re type 3 carbies - You can get DCNF aftermarket kit complete with linkage, air filters and manifolds, nuts, bolts gaskets form Fast Freddy's USA advertised in VW Trends and dune buggies & hot VW's. - Over here, we generally use the Brazalian Brosol's which I am told are an exact replacement for the originals, they come complete with electric chokes and cutouts P/nos: 114.317 G 5 & 114.516 H 5. If you're interested Brosol also do a fuel pump replacement P/no: 05.313.065-8. If you get the Brosol carbies you will have to source linkages and manifolds and pancake air filter off an original carby T3 vehicle although aftermarket single air filters can be found to fit the carbies still enabling the engine lid to be closed. With the manifolds, there are three types: 1 x single port heads and 2 x dual port heads. With the dual port head manifolds I would suggest the very late type which have rather than one, two balance pipes on each manifold, they work a lot better. · To Pat Morton re interior light - Over here T3's did not have an extra switch on the tailgate to turn on the interior light, normally if there is a switch the Square has an extra interior light in the centre of the tin hinge cover which goes right across from one hinge to the other. If you have contacts there, make sure the 3 position switch on the interior light is in the "on when doors are opened" position and then just short across the contacts on the tailgate, if the interior light comes on, the switch obviously needs replacing or adjusting. · Someone asked how do they tell if their T3 is 6 or 12 volt - the first 12 volts here in Oz were the early '68 models. There are a few thing one can check to work it out - see what's written on the lighting globes, wiring on 6v is much heavier amperage than 12v, most of the early 12v. models had a lightning sticker with 12 Volt written on it, this was stuck on the "A" pillar just below the door switch for interior light. · Ken Jones asks re tail lights, a lot of people put the wrong globes in, on early models up to '69 the top globe is the blinker (18w), middle is tail light (5,8 or 10w) and bottom brake light (18w), they are all a single filiment globes with a single contact on their base. With the larger tailights '70 on, the top one is the blinker (18w), middle stop/tail (18/8 or 10w) and bottom reverse (18w) - the top and bottom globes are single filiment but the middle is a dual filiment stagger pin globe so if you can't get it in, don't force turn it 180 degrees and try again. With the brake lights not working try the stop switch under car on master cylinder, these wires are often pulled off or break. · With the color wiring diagrams, for those interested, the T3 Elfrink workshop manual contains a 6v color diagram. for the above writer, the Bently has 12v ones. · To the person who asked about lights, (I am going on memory here because I deleted all my messages) - Re Dipped beam not coming on - Beside the obvious of blown globes,dirty contacts and blown fuses I notice no one mentioned the (hi to lo) change over relay, if it was the light switch, neither hi or lo would come on. Later models at least back to about '68 had seperate left and right side fuses, the writer said neither side lo came on so unless both fuses were blown which would be unlikely it is not this. Again it is unlikely to have bad contacts on both lo sides so unless the wires to or from the change over relay are broken or have pulled off their contacts, I would suggest you check this relay which on early cars is up under the dash on the "A" pillar side at the bottom of the windscreen and later models on the back of the fuse panel. Andy - Oz T3 Register [END]