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Re: [T3] CV concave washer
<x-flowed>On 8/20/11 10:12 PM, Bryon Garvin wrote:
ah...
you beat me to my next question. So, you got the circlip around the splined
shaft and then tapped it into place? Am I understanding?
I assume the concave washer provides some resistance to pushing the CV joint
down far enough to get the circlip on?
Yep. First I tapped the CV onto the shaft with a plastic mallet. The
groove for the clip was just a tiny bit unexposed from the concave
washer resistance. So I used some snap ring pliers and spread the clip
around the shaft and got it situated to where it was almost all the way
in the groove. Then I just tapped a bit with the socket to get it in
the groove.
Did you assemble the joint and then press onto the shaft? Or did you press
the inside part of the joint on the shaft and then "build" the rest of the
joint around it?
They're already hard enough to get together, doing it on with the inner
part on the shaft would probably make it even harder. I put the CV
together first, then put it on the shaft. They really only seem to come
apart if they're twisted from side to side, if you put it on straight up
and down it will stay together.
I noticed on mine that the inner portion of the CV had a wear 'ring' on
one side from the washer on all of my CV's. So they went back together
the same; that side also has a small chamfer to it and goes in facing
the concave washer. The cage is also slightly machined on one side
which makes it a little larger than the other to get the inner portion
in. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I put that side also
facing the concave washer.
Lube up the inside of the end of the boot well when you put it on the
shaft. Make sure that the Ottinger clamp (spelling) is on the shaft
too, and don't crimp it until your done and get the boot situated where
the holes line up. I learned that the hard way on my first one. And I
wore latex gloves as it's a pretty greasy job.
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