From: type3-d-request@vwtype3.org <type3-d-request@vwtype3.org>
Subject: type3-d Digest V2008 #381
To: type3-d@vwtype3.org
Date: Thursday, August 14, 2008, 7:04 PM
type3-d Digest Volume 2008 : Issue 381
Today's Topics:
Re: [T3] Ride Height [ "Mike
Fisher" <fisherfarms@uwol.net ]
RE: [T3] Ride Height [ "Keith
Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com ]
RE: [T3] Ride Height [ "Keith
Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com ]
RE: [T3] Ride Height [ Ken Rose
<krosecpa@hotmail.com> ]
Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square [ "Special
\(K\)" <elvisleft_bldg@com ]
Re: Measuring Tools was (RE: [T3] Ty [ "Jim
Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] Old Drum Front Brakes are t [ "Jim
Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
RE: [T3] Type 3 Filler Pipe variatio [ "Jim
Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square [ "Mike
Fisher" <fisherfarms@uwol.net ]
Re: [T3] Oil Leak [ "Jim
Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
[T3] so embarrassing... [ Fiesta Cranberry
<fiestacranberry@y ]
I had to raise my drivers side rear 1 inner spline to get
the rear end
level. I then lowered both fronts 1 inner spline to get it
level
front to back. If you keep the "flats" on the
ball joints in the same
position when reassembling you shouldn't have to
realign?
On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 5:52 PM, Ken Rose
<krosecpa@hotmail.com> wrote:
I would wait until you can drive the car and get
the suspension to
settle before you worry about ride height.
Nice point on the door sill versus the wheel opening,
that is what I will
do. BTW, I have been driving the car for the past
several weeks so I know
there is a an issue.
Ken Rose
'68 Squareback ("Pops")
Temecula, CA, USA
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I look to see how much suspension travel you have between
the snubber and
the stop. The rear you want a couple inches. The front
about an inch (to
the lower one).
I have found that on my cars, that leads to different
visible heights (tire
to wheelwell) but that may be body style as one is early
the other late.
Keith
_____
From: Ken Rose [mailto:krosecpa@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:19 PM
To: type3@vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Ride Height
Okay, so the front end of my car rides about 2 1/2 inches
higher in the
front as compared to the rear. I took my measurement from
the top of the
wheel well. 23 1/2 inches in the rear and 26 inches in the
front.
Question is, what is the standard ride height and where
should it be
measured? Also, just curious, but does it vary from Notch,
to Fasty to
Square?
Ken Rose
'68 Squareback ("Pops")
Temecula, CA, USA
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your life
Keep in mind, you will shock load the bearings and bushings
if you take the
suspension travel out of it and drive it on rough roads.
You also decrease
the Caster which makes it wander more in the wind. And
yes, as height
changes so does the geometry and the alignment changes. Do
you want me to
send you the front end FAQ?
Keith
I agree with you on this one. I don't like the nose
high as a matter of
personal preference. BTW, the car sits as I explained with
the car
basically empty and the fuel tank full or empty makes no
difference. The
sag gets worse with me and at least one other person in the
car which I
assume is quite normal.
Will the front end need to be aligned after lowering it?
Ken Rose
'68 Squareback ("Pops")
Temecula, CA, USA
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out
how.
Do you want me to send you the front end FAQ?
Yes, that would be great. Thanks, Keith.Ken Rose'68
Squareback ("Pops")Temecula, CA, USA
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I was looking to someday purchase replacement pans, from my
local
bugperformance shop. and I will clarify that it is from a
t34.. ( not even
sure if i have ever seen one myself..)
thank you kelleigh
----- Original Message -----
From: "RussW" <russw@classicvw.org>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square pan is the
same as 66 karmann
ghia?
Special (K) wrote:
Hi Russ is it true do you know if a 66 square pan
is the same as a 66
ghia?
(K)
If you mean a 66 T-34, yes, except for the seat
tracks. If you mean 66 T-1
Ghia, no.
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On 14 Aug 2008 at 11:35, Know One wrote:
I was using it to calibrate a micrometer guage I was
using to measure to 5 digits (.00001) in a controlled
atmosphere and temperature.
Are you sure about this number? That's 10 millionths of
an inch, or
better than the roundness of a high quality (grade 25) ball
bearing.
I've never seen a micrometer that would read closer
than .0001", but
that doesn't mean they don't exist.
--
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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On 14 Aug 2008 at 17:07, Darren Stevens wrote:
I believe I wasted a few dollars on a 4 bolt disk
system off a 71 I
will most likely set aside.
What didn't you like about the 4 bolt setup?
--
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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On 14 Aug 2008 at 19:07, Dave Hall wrote:
For measuring bores of things, a twist drill shank
might do - just see what
drill fits! It has the merit of reaching further in
to get the actual size
rather than the enlarged end due to a spigot
stretching it.
That's a good idea. For my overflow hose fix, I just
need to know
that a 1/2" tube will fit inside your metal pipes and
that a 5/8" (16
mm) ID hose will fit (and seal) over the outside.
--
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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Nobody makes T34 replacement pans! You've got to use
good used Type 3
pans (I've got a set for sale) or new Ghia pans that
have to be
modified.
On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 6:25 PM, Special (K)
<elvisleft_bldg@comcast.net> wrote:
Well I was looking to someday purchase replacement
pans, from my local
bugperformance shop. and I will clarify that it is
from a t34.. ( not even
sure if i have ever seen one myself..)
thank you kelleigh
----- Original Message ----- From: "RussW"
<russw@classicvw.org>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square pan is
the same as 66 karmann
ghia?
Special (K) wrote:
Hi Russ is it true do you know if a 66 square
pan is the same as a 66
ghia?
(K)
If you mean a 66 T-34, yes, except for the seat
tracks. If you mean 66 T-1
Ghia, no.
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On 14 Aug 2008 at 16:28, Ken Rose wrote:
At the groups suggestion, I took another look at the
engine and it
appears there is oil leaking from the oil cooler
seals. Can these be
replaced without removing the entire engine. Or, is
it possible that
tightening down the cooler may do the trick?
They can be replaced with the engine in the car, and
that's what I
would do, but it's not easy. You have to remove the
generator,
probably the distributor and everything off the top of the
left side
of the engine: tin, injectors, air runners.
Perhaps the hardest part of this is getting the tin loose,
since
there is always at least one bolt that will be frozen AND
hard to get
to.
It is unlikely that tightening will help at all. Before you
start,
you should make SURE that you have the right seals on hand.
I have a
writeup that will let you sort out which seals you need.
There are 3
options. I'm sending a copy of that faq directly to
you.
--
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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I can't find the emails you guys sent that told me
what these mystery wires are. I think the one that
splits into 2 was to the brain, right? What is the
other? It originally came from the right side of the
bulkhead---it's not for the kickdown switch---I marked
that one.
Thanx again,
the ditzy one
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll278/fiestacranberry/fuelinjection022.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll278/fiestacranberry/fuelinjection009.jpg
"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm
happy to say that I
finally won out over it."
---Elwood
P. Dowd
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