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Re: type3-d Digest V2008 #381




do these emails work? Ê  
Ê  Ê  Ê


--- On Thu, 8/14/08, type3-d-request@vwtype3.org <type3-d-request@vwtype3.org> wrote:

> From: type3-d-request@vwtype3.org <type3-d-request@vwtype3.org>
> Subject: type3-d Digest V2008 #381
> To: type3-d@vwtype3.org
> Date: Thursday, August 14, 2008, 7:04 PM
> type3-d Digest				Volume 2008 : Issue 381
> 
> Today's Topics:
>   Re: [T3] Ride Height                  [ "Mike
> Fisher" <fisherfarms@uwol.net ]
>   RE: [T3] Ride Height                  [ "Keith
> Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com ]
>   RE: [T3] Ride Height                  [ "Keith
> Park" <topnotch@nycap.rr.com ]
>   RE: [T3] Ride Height                  [ Ken Rose
> <krosecpa@hotmail.com> ]
>   Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square   [ "Special
> \(K\)" <elvisleft_bldg@com ]
>   Re: Measuring Tools was (RE: [T3] Ty  [ "Jim
> Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: [T3] Old Drum Front Brakes are t  [ "Jim
> Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   RE: [T3] Type 3 Filler Pipe variatio  [ "Jim
> Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square   [ "Mike
> Fisher" <fisherfarms@uwol.net ]
>   Re: [T3] Oil Leak                     [ "Jim
> Adney" <jadney@vwtype3.org> ]
>   [T3] so embarrassing...               [ Fiesta Cranberry
> <fiestacranberry@y ]
> I had to raise my drivers side rear 1 inner spline to get
> the rear end
> level.  I then lowered both fronts 1 inner spline to get it
> level
> front to back.  If you keep the "flats" on the
> ball joints in the same
> position when reassembling you shouldn't have to
> realign?
> 
> On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 5:52 PM, Ken Rose
> <krosecpa@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> I would wait until you can drive the car and get
> the suspension to
> >> settle before you worry about ride height.
> >
> > Nice point on the door sill versus the wheel opening,
> that is what I will
> > do.  BTW, I have been driving the car for the past
> several weeks so I know
> > there is a an issue.
> >
> > Ken Rose
> > '68 Squareback ("Pops")
> > Temecula, CA, USA
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > Get Windows Live and get whatever you need, wherever
> you are. Start here.
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> I look to see how much suspension travel you have between
> the snubber and
> the stop.  The rear you want a couple inches. The front
> about an inch (to
> the lower one).
> 
> I have found that on my cars, that leads to different
> visible heights (tire
> to wheelwell) but that may be body style as one is early
> the other late.
> 
>  
> 
> Keith
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>   _____  
> 
> From: Ken Rose [mailto:krosecpa@hotmail.com] 
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:19 PM
> To: type3@vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] Ride Height
> 
>  
> 
> Okay, so the front end of my car rides about 2 1/2 inches
> higher in the
> front as compared to the rear.  I took my measurement from
> the top of the
> wheel well.  23 1/2 inches in the rear and 26 inches in the
> front.
>  
> Question is, what is the standard ride height and where
> should it be
> measured?  Also, just curious, but does it vary from Notch,
> to Fasty to
> Square?
> 
> Ken Rose
> '68 Squareback ("Pops")
> Temecula, CA, USA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   _____  
> 
> Your PC, mobile phone, and online services work together
> like never before.
> See how
> <http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108587394/direct/01/> 
> WindowsR fits
> your life
> 
> Keep in mind, you will shock load the bearings and bushings
> if you take the
> suspension travel out of it and drive it on rough roads. 
> You also decrease
> the Caster which makes it wander more in the wind.  And
> yes, as height
> changes so does the geometry and the alignment changes.  Do
> you want me to
> send you the front end FAQ?
> 
>  
> 
> Keith
> 
> 
>  
> I agree with you on this one.  I don't like the nose
> high as a matter of
> personal preference.  BTW, the car sits as I explained with
> the car
> basically empty and the fuel tank full or empty makes no
> difference.  The
> sag gets worse with me and at least one other person in the
> car which I
> assume is quite normal.
>  
> Will the front end need to be aligned after lowering it?
> 
> Ken Rose
> '68 Squareback ("Pops")
> Temecula, CA, USA
> 
> 
> 
>   _____  
> 
> Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile
> Summer Games Trivia
> Contest Find
> <http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM>
>  out
> how.
> 
> Do you want me to send you the front end FAQ?
>  
> Yes, that would be great. Thanks, Keith.Ken Rose'68
> Squareback ("Pops")Temecula, CA, USA
> _________________________________________________________________
> Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on
> Windows Live.
> http://revealyourinnerathlete.windowslive.com?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WLYIA_whichathlete_usWell
> I was looking to someday purchase replacement pans, from my
> local 
> bugperformance shop. and I will clarify that it is from a
> t34.. ( not even 
> sure if i have ever seen one myself..)
> thank you kelleigh
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "RussW" <russw@classicvw.org>
> To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 6:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square pan is the
> same as 66 karmann 
> ghia?
> 
> 
> > Special (K) wrote:
> >> Hi Russ is it true do you know if a 66 square pan
> is the same as a 66 
> >> ghia?
> >> (K)
> >>
> >>
> > If you mean a 66 T-34, yes, except for the seat
> tracks. If you mean 66 T-1 
> > Ghia, no.
> >
> >
> >
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> > Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> >
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> > 
> On 14 Aug 2008 at 11:35, Know One wrote:
> 
> > I was using it to calibrate a micrometer guage I was
> > using to measure to 5 digits (.00001) in a controlled
> > atmosphere and temperature. 
> 
> Are you sure about this number? That's 10 millionths of
> an inch, or 
> better than the roundness of a high quality (grade 25) ball
> bearing.
> 
> I've never seen a micrometer that would read closer
> than .0001", but 
> that doesn't mean they don't exist.
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> On 14 Aug 2008 at 17:07, Darren Stevens wrote:
> 
> > I believe I wasted a few dollars on a 4 bolt disk
> system off a 71 I
> > will most likely set aside. 
> 
> What didn't you like about the 4 bolt setup?
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> On 14 Aug 2008 at 19:07, Dave Hall wrote:
> 
> > For measuring bores of things, a twist drill shank
> might do - just see what
> > drill fits!  It has the merit of reaching further in
> to get the actual size
> > rather than the enlarged end due to a spigot
> stretching it.
> 
> That's a good idea. For my overflow hose fix, I just
> need to know 
> that a 1/2" tube will fit inside your metal pipes and
> that a 5/8" (16 
> mm) ID hose will fit (and seal) over the outside.
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Nobody makes T34 replacement pans!  You've got to use
> good used Type 3
> pans (I've got a set for sale) or new Ghia pans that
> have to be
> modified.
> 
> On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 6:25 PM, Special (K)
> <elvisleft_bldg@comcast.net> wrote:
> > Well I was looking to someday purchase replacement
> pans, from my local
> > bugperformance shop. and I will clarify that it is
> from a t34.. ( not even
> > sure if i have ever seen one myself..)
> > thank you kelleigh
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "RussW"
> <russw@classicvw.org>
> > To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
> > Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 6:04 PM
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Russ is it true? 66 square pan is
> the same as 66 karmann
> > ghia?
> >
> >
> >> Special (K) wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Hi Russ is it true do you know if a 66 square
> pan is the same as a 66
> >>> ghia?
> >>> (K)
> >>>
> >>>
> >> If you mean a 66 T-34, yes, except for the seat
> tracks. If you mean 66 T-1
> >> Ghia, no.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >> Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> >> Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> >>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> On 14 Aug 2008 at 16:28, Ken Rose wrote:
> 
> > At the groups suggestion, I took another look at the
> engine and it
> > appears there is oil leaking from the oil cooler
> seals.  Can these be
> > replaced without removing the entire engine.  Or, is
> it possible that
> > tightening down the cooler may do the trick? 
> 
> They can be replaced with the engine in the car, and
> that's what I 
> would do, but it's not easy. You have to remove the
> generator, 
> probably the distributor and everything off the top of the
> left side 
> of the engine: tin, injectors, air runners.
> 
> Perhaps the hardest part of this is getting the tin loose,
> since 
> there is always at least one bolt that will be frozen AND
> hard to get 
> to. 
> 
> It is unlikely that tightening will help at all. Before you
> start, 
> you should make SURE that you have the right seals on hand.
> I have a 
> writeup that will let you sort out which seals you need.
> There are 3 
> options. I'm sending a copy of that faq directly to
> you.
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney@vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Unsubscribe?  See http://www.vwtype3.org/list/
> Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> I can't find the emails you guys sent that told me
> what these mystery wires are.  I think the one that
> splits into 2 was to the brain, right?  What is the
> other?  It originally came from the right side of the
> bulkhead---it's not for the kickdown switch---I marked
> that one.  
> 
> Thanx again,
> the ditzy one
> 
> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll278/fiestacranberry/fuelinjection022.jpg
> 
> http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll278/fiestacranberry/fuelinjection009.jpg
> 
> "I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm
> happy to say that I
> finally won out over it."
>                                                  ---Elwood
> P. Dowd
> 
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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> Need list help? mailto:gregm@vwtype3.org
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~