Re: [T3] Power Bleeders

["Tim Johnson" <skinny@cablerocket.com>]

<x-flowed>ok little slow getting in here on this I have used several different type of 
power bleeding
but the method I use now is the one I like the best

here is what you need

spare cap for your reservoir
ft or so of small silicone hose and a plastic container  (a cup will do )
blow gun you can unscrew tip from (mine has female threads in it )
brass compression fitting (mine is from a old oil pressure gauge)
piece  of 1/8 nylon tube (mine is about a foot long )
compressed air
and regulator
oh and of course a hose for the compressor

ok here we go got all the stuff
now take the lid drill a hole in the top (enlarge hole that is there ) so 
the 1/8th nylon hose fits snug ( I only drill into the first part of lid )
put lid on reservoir
take blow gun unscrew the tip and screw the fitting in the end
take the nylon line and put it in the compression fitting
make sure your compressor is full hose attached and regulator is set to 2 or 
3 lbs
attach blow gun to hose near front of car

now assuming you have already had the bleeder loose
put the silicone hose over the bleeder into cup

ok here is where it gets to be fun take the blow gun attach it to hose from 
compressor
stick the nylon end in hole in reservoir lid  wire the blow gun on or con 
your buddy into holding it on

go to the pass side rear tire that you already installed the silicone hose 
on that goes into cup
open the bleeder
the air will push the fluid out the hose
into the cup
you can watch the air leave if you use clear silicone hose
so do pass rear then drivers rear then pass front and finally drivers front


hope that does it




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jens Vagelpohl" <jens@type4.org>
To: <type3@vwtype3.org>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [T3] Power Bleeders


> Speaking of power bleeders, I was faced with trying to use one today.  On 
> my 412 wagon one caliper had a stuck piston so I needed to  overhaul it.
>
> Side note for people wanting to rebuild theirs: The 412 has an ATE  unit 
> with a piston on each side of the caliper, I do believe (but am  not sure) 
> the Type 3 uses a similar or maybe even same unit. Since  original rebuild 
> kits for the 412 were no longer available (surprise  surprise) I ordered a 
> kit for the ATE caliper found on Super Beetles.  The main piece, the 
> sealing ring, seems to be the same. The outside  rubber seal seemed a tick 
> short as far as possible outward piston  travel goes, but it does fit. The 
> only item not fitting at all was  the metal plate that is supposed to 
> prevent the pistons from turning,  so I re-used the old one.
>
> Anyway, I was faced with a really modern bleeder that works by  pumping 
> fluid at pressure into the overflow container or,  alternatively, by 
> applying suction at the bleeder nipple end. Putting  pressurized fluid 
> into the system did not work because the cap with  inlet I used was home 
> made (none of the "real" adapters fit) and  leaked fluid. The suction 
> method worked, but unfortunately it was  impossible to tell whether the 
> air in the clear hose from the rubber  suction adapter on the bleeder was 
> from the brake system or from the  fact that the rubber adapter really did 
> not seal well enough (or  maybe sucked in through the bleeder threads). So 
> I resorted to a very  simple method that does not require any fancy 
> bleeder: Using the same  home-made cap with inlet-adapter that leaked 
> pressurized fluid, I  simply connected pressurized air that came through a 
> pressure  regulator which limited it to 1/2 bar. Easy-peasy after that, 
> you  just need to watch the fluid level to make sure you don't end up 
> pushing air into the brake lines.
>
> jens
>
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